Given a little steam, broccoli can become a star player

I'm a brassica believer. Give me cauliflower, cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts or broccoli, and I'm happy. But I also realize that everyone doesn't feel the same way. They've had stinky, mushy cabbage, or tough kale, or drab and overcooked broccoli, and they can't imagine it can be any other way.

It can. Take broccoli. You can roast it, broil it, saute it - or even leave it raw and slice it thin. But one of the best ways of all might be to barely steam it, until it gets bright green and glossy, just barely tender and still possessing a little crunch. Then do little else except combine it with powerful flavors that bring out its best.

That's what Deborah Madison, guru of vegetarian cooking, does in her new cookbook, “In My Kitchen.” It's a collection of new and favorite recipes - with many of the latter streamlined, the way you do when you make something over and over. Her wise moves: to pair the broccoli with sharp lemon, feta, olives, capers and herbs, and to dress it while it's warm so that all those flavors mingle and become positively aromatic.

This is a broccoli salad that might just turn you into a believer, too.

Roasted Chile Lime Tofu Bowls

One 14-ounce block extra-firm tofu

2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 lime), or more juice as needed

2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, or more as needed

½ teaspoon granulated garlic (garlic powder)

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more as needed

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

About 6 ounces broccoli florets (about 3 cups)

¼ cup lightly packed chopped fresh basil leaves, plus a few small whole leaves, for garnish

Water (optional)

2 cups cooked brown rice, warmed

½ cup fresh sunflower sprouts (may substitute another sprout of your choice)

¼ cup raw, hulled, unsalted sunflower seeds, toasted (see note)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Drain the tofu of its packing liquid and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes.

Whisk together the lime zest and juice, oil, garlic powder, crushed red pepper flakes, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Taste, and add more salt, as needed. Gently toss the tofu in the dressing. Transfer the coated tofu cubes to the baking sheet, gently shaking off as much of the marinade as possible back into the bowl.

Roast (middle rack) for 15 minutes, until the tofu is lightly browned on the bottom. Remove from the oven and gently flip the cubes over. Toss the broccoli florets in the dressing/marinade, then arrange them on the same the baking sheet with the tofu. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until all the edges are lightly browned. Taste, and sprinkle with a little salt, as needed.

Whisk the chopped basil into the remaining marinade to form a dressing. If it is too thick, add a little water, more lime juice and/or more oil to thin it out.

Serve the roasted tofu and broccoli hot over bowls of brown rice. Add the sprouts, toasted sunflower seeds and drizzles of the basil-flecked dressing. Garnish with basil leaves if desired.

Note: Toast the sunflower seeds in a small skillet over medium heat; cook, stirring, until they become fragrant and start to take on a little color, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool completely before using.

Serves 4

Nutrition | Per serving (using ¾ teaspoon salt): 320 calories, 14 g protein, 31 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 430 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar

Adapted from “The First Mess Cookbook: Vibrant Plant-Based Recipes to Eat Well Through the Seasons,” by Laura Wright (Avery, 2017).