When planning for Thanksgiving, don't forget the pecan pie

Leaves are changing, the weather is cooling (in some parts of the country) and the smell of fall lingers in the air. Pumpkins are appearing on doorsteps and families are beginning to plan their Thanksgiving menus. Pecan pie should always be on the list.

Pecan pie can be difficult to describe. It's not a fruit pie or a cream pie, and it's not a traditional custard. It falls into a loosely defined category most familiar to our Southern friends - the sugar pie. Sugar pies can be found in many styles and variations, but at its roots, a sugar pie is a single-crust pie with a baked filling of sugar, eggs and flavorings.

The sugar used can be granulated sugar, brown sugar, corn syrup, maple syrup, honey or molasses, depending on what you want your standout flavors to be. Pecan pies are commonly made with corn syrup, which lends a neutral flavor that helps the nuttiness of the pecans shine through, but substituting maple syrup can give richness and complexity without altering the texture.

Because the filling of sugar pies can be very soft, the pecans play an important textural role. These nuts can be added whole, chopped or a combination of both. They will soak up some of the filling, which will make them tender enough to cut with a fork, but with enough bite to contrast the soft, creamy filling. And what are rich pecans and a sweet filling without a flaky, buttery pie crust? Our all-butter crust is partially baked before filling, which helps keep it crisp despite the wet interior. Experiment with decorative borders and crimping to make your pie stand out on a crowded table.

Pecan pies are simple to prepare (easy as pie!), but it can be tough to determine when your pie is done. Sugar pie fillings won't always look perfectly firm when they are still hot in the oven. You will notice that the edges of the filling, just along the crust, will be a little bit puffy - like a soufflé - even when the interior still appears slightly wet and jiggly. This is a good indicator that your pie is ready.

• This article was provided to The Associated Press by The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. This recipe also can be found in the CIA's cookbooks, "Baking at Home" and "Pies and Tarts."