A smash hit: These crisp, golden potatoes are the best of both worlds

Here's something fun, different and healthful to do with potatoes: Crush them into rustic rounds that have the golden crispness of fried potatoes outside and the softness of mashed potatoes inside.

You start with small, round potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or Red Bliss, which are ideal here because of their thin skins and creamy texture. Steam them (rather than boil, so you retain more nutrients) until they are just tender, and let them cool until they are easy to handle.

Then the fun part: Carve an X into each potato, place it on a baking sheet and use the heel of your hand to crush it so the skin bursts and you wind up with a sort of potato pancake. Brush the rounds with oil, sprinkle with a crunch of coarse salt and bake until they are alluringly crisp and golden.

They are irresistible served just like that, especially with a poultry or meat dish that has pan juices or sauce to be sopped up on the plate. But I like to whip up the quick horseradish cream sauce in the accompanying recipe — a simple mix of Greek yogurt with horseradish, olive oil and salt — to elevate the spuds with a kick of flavor and cool contrast.

• Ellie Krieger blogs and offers a weekly newsletter at www.elliekrieger.com