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Lean, light fruity salmon appeals to the senses

Even though this meal is lean and light, it appeals to the senses with color and contrast; the salmon and onion taste almost sweet set against the melange of berries. The fruit cooks just long enough to soften but not enough to break down.

Here are a few tips for cooking salmon on the stove top:

1. Start with fish that's close to room temperature. Take it out of the refrigerator about 20 minutes in advance, and season it before it goes in the pan.

2. Make sure the pan's hot before you put in the fillets; in this case, they go in skinned sides up.

3. Turn the fillets over when they are mostly opaque but not yet firm when gently pressed.

4. Cook for a shorter time on the second side; a little bit of translucence at the very center is a good thing.

5. Let the fish rest for a few minutes before serving; some carry-over cooking will happen.

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