Put a Brazilian twist on succotash with black beans
This week's recipe puts a Brazilian twist on an American staple, succotash. It should be just the ticket in August, when millions of us watch the Olympics being played in Rio de Janeiro.
The classic version of succotash is a combination of fresh corn and lima beans (or some other shell bean), sometimes embellished with tomatoes or peppers.
At least as old as the arrival of the Europeans in America, the dish takes its name from a Narragansett term meaning “broken corn kernels.” (The Narragansett people are a Native American tribe centered in Rhode Island.) To this day succotash often appears on menus throughout New England on Thanksgiving.
This Brazilian version of succotash holds fast to the corn, but swaps out the lima beans for black beans, a staple of Brazilian cuisine. So are okra, coconut milk and cilantro, which I've also added.
Although okra boasts a unique and appealing taste, its texture — depending on how it is prepared — can be off-putting. Sliced and cooked, okra gives up a gelatinous liquid. That's not a problem in Louisiana, where locals depend on okra's gluiness to thicken their gumbo. Likewise, okra dipped in buttermilk and fried in cornmeal is considered a delicacy throughout the South.
I wanted to do what I could to minimize the veggie's gooiness. I knew if I cooked the okra pod whole, the liquid would stay inside the pod. But it didn't seem right to feature whole pods of okra in a succotash dish; I needed to work with sliced okra.
I discovered that acid would work to tamp down the goo. I teamed tomatoes, a great source of acid, with fresh lime juice, a popular Brazilian ingredient, which did a pretty good job of tamping down the okra liquid. However, if you're still leery of okra or can't find it, just leave it out. Likewise, if you're not a fan of cilantro, replace it with fresh basil or parsley.
• Sara Moulton is host of public television's “Sara's Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”