Uncle Julio's in Naperville surprises with flavorful Tex-Mex fare

It's a Mexican fiesta every day at the relatively new upscale Uncle Julio's Mexican From Scratch in north Naperville. And not in a contrived way, either. Having visited the Uncle Julio's in Chicago and Lombard years ago and having only so-so experiences, my expectations weren't high. But, was I wrong.

My first impression as we were walking to the restaurant's brick and stone entrance on a recent Friday night was how inviting the outdoor patio looked with its plush couches and umbrella-topped tables. While we decided to sit inside, next time I would opt to sit outside at a table overlooking the water at the rear of the restaurant. Twinkling lights add ambience, and heaters mean patrons can enjoy the patio even as the weather cools off.

Having heard from friends about the popularity of this Uncle Julio's, I called ahead for reservations. I was told they were booked. We decided to chance it anyway. When we arrived, we were surprised to be shown to a table right away, especially considering how bustling the restaurant was, from the full bar area at the front to the two dining rooms, which host a variety of tables, plush booths and high-tops, to the wraparound patio.

Our pleasant waitress greeted us promptly and was more than happy to explain how dishes are made from scratch in the open kitchen, which we could see from our table. She outlined the many drink and entree specialties with ease. And when she wasn't sure if they offered white sangria (sadly, they don't), she found out the answer for us almost immediately.

The classic frozen and special-of-the-day raspberry margaritas were flowing as small and large groups of patrons celebrated special occasions, or just the end of the workweek, over dinner. The festive salsa music was kept at a sensible level in the tastefully decorated (not kitschy) dining rooms.

Uncle Julio's is fun for kids, too, since this is a high-energy hacienda where they won't be shushed. Plus, kids are encouraged to go watch as a chef makes tortillas in the tortilla maker in front of the open kitchen.

The complimentary crispy chips and spicy salsa didn't last long at our table. And we devoured the small order of fresh, delicious guacamole, too. Next time we might go for the customizable guac made tableside, more for the novelty of it. Or maybe the pineapple bacon version.

While we were tempted to try the hand-rolled tamales and Mama Julio's Nachos, we opted to save room for the signature fajitas instead.

And we were glad we did. The perfectly seasoned (read: not too spicy) juicy chicken and steak fajitas came to our table sizzling. Add to that the warm homemade tortillas (far superior to store-bought), and tender sauteed peppers and onions, and yum. These were some of the best fajitas I've had. A bonus: Our waitress brought extra tortillas for us to take home with our leftovers, which reheated well the next day for lunch.

The accompanying Mexican rice and frijols a la charra largely went untouched because our focus was on the fajitas.

If you desire a spice kick, the grilled fish tacos fill the bill. Three corn tortillas served as the base for a mound of flavorful well-seasoned tilapia, shredded cabbage, pico de gallo and spicy avocado crema. I took a liking to the spicy black beans and cilantro rice sides, too. Bring on the water though.

For my next visit, I might consider ordering the carnitas (pork) tacos, the bacon-wrapped camarones (shrimp) or the chicken fajita Cobb salad.

By the time we got to dessert, we were uncomfortably full. So, sadly, we took a pass on the signature chocolate piñata - a hollow chocolate shell (a little bigger than a 16-inch softball) filled with mini churros, pineapple and berries hanging from a metal contraption attached to a rectangular platter artfully decorated with whipped cream and raspberry, chocolate and caramel sauces. We did get to marvel at this unique concept when one was delivered to a neighboring table. The waiter handed the elementary-school aged boy a small wooden stick with which to whack at the piñata until the decadent contents spilled out of the broken chocolate shell onto the plate. What a fun way to end an enjoyable meal, even if it will set you back $25.

<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>

Uncle Julio's

1831 Abriter Court, Naperville, (331) 444-1300 or

unclejulios.com/locations/naperville/

Cuisine: Tex-Mex from scratch

Setting: Convivial hacienda; pleasant outdoor patio with a water view

Entrees: $10.99 to $25.99

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday

Also: Reservations recommended; to-go and catering available