advertisement

Having cosmetic work done is getting routine

The modern war against aging - against tiny furrows, laugh lines and muffin tops - will be bloodless.

Now, we're microneedling, subjecting our jowls to the prick of a hundred pins in the hopes that this will prod our collagen to flow the way it did when we were 25.

We're basking in the clarifying glow of intense pulsed light and letting ultrasounds wash over our chubby parts.

No longer will we be nipping, sucking and tucking at 60. Not when we middle-income, yoga-loving Americans could be filling, peeling and "subdermal heating" at 35.

For evidence, you needed only to troll the massive halls of the Walter E. Washington Convention Center in the nation's capital, where thousands of doctors converged for the American Academy of Dermatology's annual conference.

Doctors flitted between sessions on sculpting and needling and mingled with those who peddle the tools of this revolution: the erbium lasers, the Fraxel lasers, the stem-cell serums, the HydraFacial get-ups and the Dermapens.

"Twenty-five, 30 years ago, everybody thought of dermatology as psoriasis, eczema, acne and warts," said Tina Alster, a high-profile Washington dermatologist who gave several lectures during the convention.

These days, dermatology is as much the pursuit of a future free from having to age like our mothers.

So, inside the convention center's exhibit hall, there was a National Institutes of Health table stocked with the requisite dermatologic pamphlets - Raynaud's phenomenon! Behcet's disease! - that no one stopped to pick up.

But who could resist the allure of the cosmeceutical stands, where pretty women slathered conference-goers in post-laser gels and balms?

According to data compiled by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, Americans spent more than $12 billion on cosmetic procedures in 2014, and some doctors estimate that half that figure is spent on the noninvasive stuff, including fillers and fat injections. And the number of men looking to flatten their crow's feet with a little hyaluronic acid or tighten up their manhandles using radio frequencies rose at a rapid clip: Procedures among men rose 43 percent between 2013 and 2014.

Alster, one of the world's leading experts on cosmetic lasers, has been in the field for decades, and she sees her clientele changing as fast as the technology.

"The younger age groups are much more accepting of this," she said. "They don't really see this as being abnormal. It's like getting their hair cut."

It's the gray-hairs, the Dad Bods, who fret about the stigma of paying a visit to the doc and fear ending up looking plastic.

"The baby boomers and older age groups - who need it, right? - they've been the ones who've been the most reluctant to embrace these procedures," said Alster. "There's still that element of it being so vain. The younger people are like 'Hey, I had Fraxel today.' "

In patients' minds, "it goes hand-in-hand with eating kale and going to spin class," confirmed Ivona Percec, associate director of cosmetic plastic surgery at the University of Pennsylvania.

"Everyone wants to do the safest, cheapest thing possible. And no one wants to go under the knife," said Sophia Reid, a medical resident based in the Bronx. "Body contouring, CoolSculpting, face-sculpting …" She ticked off all the procedures in her professional future. The noninvasive stuff is "one of the attractions of dermatology. A lot of people will pay out-of-pocket."

Patients talking up the work they've had done is one element driving the noninvasive boom, said many doctors at the conference. The other is how many new tools are available, and how little bloodletting many of them require.

This spate of new technology is more than the field has seen "at any point in cosmetic medicine," said Percec, of U-Penn., which has even opened a research center dubbed the Center for Human Appearance to study the trends.

On her way out of the exhibition hall, Manasi Ladrigan, a dermatologist from Rochester, N.Y., confessed that although she'd trained in using the cosmetics technology as part of her schooling, it never crossed her mind that she'd actually perform those procedures as much as she does.

Now, she says, "Everybody comes in saying, 'Don't touch my lips, but make them look better.'"

They want the work, but they want it to be natural-looking, she said.

Ah, yes, the "I woke up like this" look.

But this brave new world has also required her to pick up a new skill: managing expectations.

"People will come in and pull their face back, and say, 'I want this,'" she said.

"And I'll say, 'What you're looking for is a facelift.'"

At the Clinique booth at the American Academy of Dermatology meeting, visitors get lipstick applied. The conference was heavy on the cosmetic side of dermatology, a booming business as more people get subtle "upkeep" to their appearance done at a younger age. Washington Post photo by Lavanya Ramanathan
Article Comments
Guidelines: Keep it civil and on topic; no profanity, vulgarity, slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about tragedies will be blocked. If a comment violates these standards or our terms of service, click the "flag" link in the lower-right corner of the comment box. To find our more, read our FAQ.