Deacon & Mercy settling in at downtown Glen Ellyn spot
Glen Ellyn's first settlers would not recognize Main Street today with its string of shops and restaurants straddling the Metra tracks. And they might be surprised to see one of the restaurants bearing their names. When they arrived in an oxcart in 1834, Deacon Churchill and his wife, Mercy, came with little more than the pioneering spirit their namesake says it tries to capture in American traditions of food, drink and camaraderie.
Judging from the packed tables at its 135-seat restaurant, Deacon & Mercy is off to a good start with a full bar, a menu heavy on American fare with a modern twist, and live entertainment on select evenings.
Our party of four arrived on the third weekend after the restaurant opened in the former location of Cab's Wine Bar Bistro. The backlit bar caught my eye, and I asked about specialty cocktails. None yet, though our server said a selection will be forthcoming. Draft beer also remains in the future, but bottles were reasonably priced at $4 for a Bud, $5 for Heineken. Wines come by the bottle or glass, but on our visit the bar had run out of one of the most standard wines, chardonnay. On a Saturday night. At 7 p.m.
While waiting to order food, we had time to take in the understated decor. Large color photographs by West suburban photographer Tom Phelan hang on gray and wood-paneled walls. Historic black-and-white photos of Glen Ellyn grace a small dining area upstairs, empty on the night we dined. A stamped metal ceiling in the main restaurant contributed to a noise level too high for our baby boomer ears. Younger diners might find it energizing.
Though all tables were taken, we didn't feel rushed and, once we ordered, food came from the kitchen in good time.
A tasty salad of roasted beets and fresh goat cheese rested on a bed of mixed greens topped with toasted almonds and balsamic vinaigrette. Caesar, house and chopped Italian salads rounded out the leafy options. We shared an appetizer of truffle fries. Though tossed with truffle oil and Parmesan cheese, they didn't differ much from an ordinary side of french fries. I wish we had tried the steak sliders, wings or ahi tuna appetizers.
Our server declared the Deacon meatloaf entree the best in 13 counties. A dining companion who fondly remembers his mother's meatloaf nodded his approval of Deacon & Mercy's flavorful version served over mashed baby red potatoes and topped with rosemary demi glaze and Cajun fried onions. My burger-loving husband ordered the handmade, half-pound Mercy Burger with crumbled blue cheese, bacon, pork belly and roasted garlic aioli, but he hates mushrooms and asked for grilled onions instead. No problem. The sandwich also can be ordered as a regular burger or cheeseburger. All come with fries.
Our server said the almond-crusted salmon entree ranks among the favorites. The Atlantic salmon served medium-rare sits on sautéed spinach with lemon garlic butter. Another dining companion and I found the sauce too watery for our tastes. The crab cakes, Cajun shrimp pasta or pasta primavera might have been better options. Beef eaters can choose from an 8-ounce filet or four 2-ounce beef medallions cooked two ways: with Cajun spices and crusted with blue cheese. A chicken entree comes with homemade risotto. A lemon caper sauce flavors chicken piccata. Asparagus accompanies both.
We couldn't decide on the three desserts on the menu: a flourless chocolate torte, cheesecake with raspberry coulis and a pair of cannoli, one traditional and one filled with chocolate mousse. We shared a sampler of all three that satisfied our collective sweet tooth.
As we left, Chicago musician Tommy Pope had set up near the hostess stand and started stirring up the crowd on his acoustic guitar.
First settlers Deacon and Mercy probably hit a few bumps in the road in their oxcart en route to what has become downtown Glen Ellyn. Three weeks in, their namesake restaurant seems to be encountering a few, too - minor flaws that may smooth out once it has time to settle in.
<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
Deacon & Mercy
430 N. Main St., Glen Ellyn, (630) 942-9463,
Cuisine: Infusion of traditional American fare and modern cuisine
Setting: Small storefront on main downtown street
Entrees: $10-$24
Hours: 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to midnight Friday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday; 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday