RBK American Grill in Downers Grove has the makings for success
You couldn't ask for a better location for a restaurant. The site at 994 Warren Ave. has a downtown Downers Grove address, proximity to the Metra line and an easy walk to a local cinema, yet, over the years, at least three establishments have come and gone.
The latest endeavor to occupy that spot, RBK American Grill, may signal a positive shift in the tide. During a recent Thursday evening dinner, this intimate space was bustling; with just about every one of its 56 seats occupied, as well as the six stools at the bar. Not bad for a venue that opened in late July.
Named after chef-owner and veteran restaurateur Robert Butterfield, the American bistro has the makings for success: a kitchen capable of turning out well-executed classic dishes, exemplary service and a inviting ambience.
My dining partner enjoyed the cushiony comfort of RBK's newly installed banquettes, and we both appreciated the dishtowel-sized cloth napkins, a perfect foil against unexpected food spills.
RBK's bar stocks a tidy supply of wines and craft beers. In addition, it also prides itself on a repertoire of handmade cocktails.
Mussels in white wine, a farm-stand cheese plate, sushi grade tuna tartare, organic beets and Greek salad are among available starters. For something a bit different, try the tempura asparagus: seven spears lightly battered and quickly deep-fried, served with a delicious lemon-dill vinaigrette and grated Parmesan dressing.
Entree options feature a choice of two burgers, fried organic chicken, shrimp tacos, steak salad and a veggie mac-and-cheese. Wild salmon also is a menu staple along with a daily fish special.
The seared sea scallops with baby shrimp were perfectly seasoned and plated with a delectable avocado-corn relish.
Short rib fans needn't hesitate to order RBK's version, served with mashed potatoes, skinny green beans and roasted shredded carrots. The meat was so tender that a replacement knife supplied by the waitstaff wasn't pressed into service even once.
Other options for carnivores include the double-cut pork chop with a roasted butternut squash puree, the prime bistro steak with hand-cut fries, the 28-day aged filet with horseradish mashed potatoes and, at $55 for two diners, a 30-ounce bone-in rib-eye served with buttermilk mashed potatoes and organic greens.
Between an appetizer and a main course, one can consume a goodly amount of food. But dessert fanatics (present company included) somehow typically manage to save room for a sweet indulgence.
Of the five on offer, I tried — and recommend — the house-made whipped-cream-topped banana pie, a well-made old-fashioned treat built on an Oreo crust.
Bourbon-pecan bread pudding, farm-stand raspberry pie, flourless double chocolate cake and butterscotch creme brulee were among other temptations vying for attention.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
RBK American Grill
994 Warren Ave., Downers Grove, (331) 251-6780, <a href="http://www.rbkdg.com">rbkdg.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> American bistro
<b>Setting:</b> Contemporary
<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers: $6.50-$13; entrees: $13-$29; desserts: $7-$8
<b>Hours:</b> 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday; 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Monday