Home repair: Sloppy construction may cause cracks in corners

Q. I own a townhouse built in 1978 and have a problem in the second-floor bedroom. It faces mainly south and gets most of the weather, whatever it may be. Two corners of the bedroom crack from top to bottom, even though they have been repaired three times by caulking, taping, etc. The repairs last for three or so years and crack again. These corners are on the wall that faces out and has two windows also.

There are eight townhouses in my row, and I know of two others that have the same problem. I bought wood trim that I planned to use instead of doing them over again, but the trim doesn’t fit in properly. What do you suggest?

A. It sounds as if the changes in temperature and moisture cause the wall framing to move with the seasons. If you had the same problem on a lower level, a structural issue might be the cause. But since you mention only that one second-floor bedroom, it is possible construction of the townhouses was not the best and that the interior wall framing is not tied in well enough to the exterior wall framing.

If you have not tried using a fiberglass tape, that would be my first suggestion. Otherwise, try to make the trim you bought fit by scribing it to the wall surfaces or find a wood molding that will fit properly.

Q. I read your column every Sunday in our local paper. Of particular interest to me was your column regarding a reader who had smoke from his fireplace being drawn into the basement by way of an adjacent flue.

I have always been curious about fireplaces and the actions of the flue. Of course, I realize warm air rises and that this is the foundation principle of flue action. But what about the action of flue gases cooling as they rise?

Where I used to live, I had a poorly designed fireplace and a very tall chimney. The chimney was exposed on all sides for over 20 feet. The fireplace did smoke into the room, but usually only when the wind was blowing. Now I have a wood stove and a masonry chimney that is much shorter (I am in a different residence), but I get smoke in the room if I open the doors and the fire is not at the absolute back of the stove. There is also the problem of an 8-inch flue pipe going into a 7-inch solid-lined flue. I also get creosote buildup at the top of the chimney and in the grating of the flue cap.

Why no cooling problem and creosote buildup in the tall, cold chimney and buildup in my shorter, better-insulated chimney?

A. A lesser-diameter pipe should not follow a larger one. That may be one of your smoking problems. The others are that short chimneys do not have the draft of tall chimneys, and that chimneys venting fireplaces have better drafts because more air flows upward through them.

Creosote does not normally cause a problem in fireplaces because there is so much air that the combustion gases are diluted enough. But wood stoves, being more efficient, encourage condensation of the combustion gases that are replete with creosote.

Try using ACS (Anti-Creo-Soot), which you should be able to buy in stove shops, through chimney sweeps and online. Regular use of ACS eventually will change the existing creosote from type III to a very light brown dust that can easily be swept.

Q. Our chain-driven garage door opener is shooting grease on our overhead door. We have a trail of grease down the middle of the door. I have used Dawn, Fantastik and all sorts of degreasers, and all we are doing is taking off the paint and making it worse. The door is steel. The door people have no help for us, and repeatedly wiping down the chain is not helping. It is an eyesore since it is in the front of our house and is seen from the street.

Do you have any advice on how to clean the door short of repainting it, which still would not solve the problem?

A. What is staining your garage door are minute metal filings that are so small they look like grease. To prevent them, a very small amount of a petroleum-based lubricant, such as light motor oil in a spray or trigger can, should be applied to the chain. Do not put on too much oil, as it will drip onto the floor or car. Open and close the door a few times to allow the oil to coat all chain parts.

If you have a torsion spring (spring installed on the door header, as opposed to the two extension springs that are on the sides of the door), a few drops of oil should be applied to the top of the center bearing. Do not attempt any adjustment on the spring; this is a job for an experienced technician.

To clean the filings residue on the door, use an abrasive cleaner such as Comet and water. You will need to repaint the door since the paint is coming off.

Q. This spring we would like to replace the flooring in our kitchen and dining room. I was reading about a new category of flooring — luxury vinyl tile (LVT). The writer claims it is easy to install, durable and easy to clean. LVT requires no sealing, polishing, chemicals or special cleaners. It resists scuffs, stains, mold, scratches and wear. LVT comes with a 20-year warranty and is a popular choice in hospitals and hotels.

Are you familiar with this product, and does it live up to the claims for being durable and reasonably priced? Should I consider this product, or do you have other recommendations?

A. LVT tiles are a product of Armstrong, a manufacturer of resilient flooring for many years. I have no personal experience with this product, but I have used many Armstrong products in my construction business in the past and have never been disappointed with their quality.

Q. Do air ducts actually need cleaning? If so, how often? And how do you find a good company to do this? My house does seem pretty dusty, so could dirty air ducts be the reason?

A. Air ducts may need cleaning if the environment is quite dusty — for example, if you live in an industrial or agricultural area (or downwind from one), or in a smoggy city. Whether the dust in the ducts is causing the dust in your house or vice versa is akin to asking which came first, the chicken or the egg.

There is no rule for how often ducts need cleaning, if at all. The frequency depends on the amount of dust in the environment.

You can find duct-cleaning firms in your Yellow Pages under “Duct Cleaning” or similar listing. Ask for several references, then call them to be sure the company’s service was prompt, the workers were clean and courteous and the firm was responsive to callbacks, if needed. Also ask each company about its warranty.

If you have a serious dust problem, you may want to consider having an electrostatic filter installed to replace the slide-in filter you probably have. Also be sure to keep the area around the furnace clean and unencumbered.

Q. We are considering installing a jet tub kit. What is your advice? We’ve heard the kits are a better option due to the fact that we will not be replacing the tub with an acrylic type. Is there a kit you would recommend if we went that route? Or would replacing the existing tub with one that has factory jets already installed be smarter? What jet tub manufacturer would you recommend if that is our choice?

A. Several manufacturers make kits to convert a standard tub into a whirlpool tub, and some state that any do-it-yourselfer can complete the job in less than a day. Some also state their kits can be installed in any tub, including steel and cast iron, while others state their kits can be installed only on acrylic, fiberglass and plastic thin-walled tubs and, with special fittings, through thicker cultured marble and natural stone tubs.

Drilling holes through cast iron is not an easy job, and through steel only somewhat easier. You will need hole saws, which you can buy in hardware stores. There is a risk of serious damage to the tub and its enamel.

You also need access to the back of one end of the tub for the pump and piping. That may require opening a wall and repairing it. Also make sure there is room for the pump. You’ll need a licensed electrician to install a GFCI receptacle for the pump.

I am not able to recommend any particular kit or manufacturer since I haven’t had personal experience with any of them. When all is said and done, it seems to me that the wiser choice may be either to have a licensed plumber install the kit or to replace the tub with an already fitted one.

Heating tip: I received the following interesting comment from a reader: “I have been in the heating (hydronic) industry for close to 30 years. I read your column frequently. I am suggesting another option for your readers to save oil or gas when heating a home with hot water.

“A simple ‘outdoor reset control’ will modulate boiler water temperature based on outdoor air temperature. The most efficiency obtained from a boiler is when it is not running. The outdoor reset will create long on-times and long off-times. A standard cast-iron (noncondensing) boiler can be reset from 140- to 200-degree water. Anyone who has these $200 to $300 controls installed sees a minimum fuel savings of 15 percent. Manufacturers are Tekmar, Honeywell and I am sure there are others.

“Also caution your readers on the ‘incentives’ being offered to install high-efficiency ‘condensing’ equipment. If these boilers are not subject to low return water temps, their efficiency is no better than standard atmospheric equipment, and their life span is dramatically reduced.”

Ÿ Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via email at henridemarne@gmavt.net.

© 2012, United Feature Syndicate Inc.