Ask the plumber: ‘Water hammer’ noise is easily controlled
Q. After saving for years, we finally completed our new kitchen. We love the layout and state-of-the art plumbing fixtures. The only issue we need to resolve is that when the dishwasher cycles, we get a banging noise in our water pipes. The appliance guy says the dishwasher is fine, and we need to check our plumbing. Strangely, if we open the kitchen faucet while the dishwasher runs, there is no banging. Where do we start, and what can be causing the noise?
A. This could be a case of what’s called “water hammer,” and it’s very common in houses that have high water pressure. In fact, your question may hold the answer to your problem.
You said that if the kitchen faucet is on, there’s no banging noise with the running dishwasher. Well, the open faucet may be acting as a pressure release for the plumbing system.
Appliances like dishwashers and washing machines can shut the water off quickly. So, if you have high water pressure, and the water stops suddenly, that can cause the banging noise, or water hammer.
First, have a licensed plumber check your water pressure. If your water pressure is over 80 pounds per square inch, your plumber may suggest several solutions. Usually, he can install a pressure-reducing valve to lower the water pressure, and install a water-hammer-arrester control.
Water-hammer controls act like small shock absorbers for a plumbing system and can quiet the noise as well.
Bottom line: In this case, a good plumber won’t give you a lot of “bang” for your buck!
Q. Hi, Ed. Your column is a great help to single women like myself. I now have the confidence to replace my old toilet seat. I’m familiar with the seat removal and installation process. I’m looking for some helpful hints. Can you give me some final tips?
A. Nice job! I always stress that you should never jump into a project without researching the installation process, material list and problems you may expect during the job. Since you looked up the process, I’ll concentrate on getting the right seat, and problems you may encounter with the job. Here are three basic tips to remember when replacing your toilet seat.
Ÿ Bowl shape: Standard toilets have one of two bowl shapes. If you look down at the toilet bowl, “elongated” bowls are egg-shaped, while “round front” bowls look like a circle. When choosing your seat, you’ll need to know this information. So, inspect your toilet first to determine if you need to buy an elongated or round-front toilet seat.
Ÿ Seat style: Low-end seats may be made of compressed painted wood or other less-expensive materials, while higher-end seats are usually made of high-impact molded plastics. I recommend spending the extra money for the solid plastic seats. Some of these seats even have “quick release” features so you can easily remove the seat to clean under the hinges. This type of seat is also very easy to install.
Ÿ Removal of old seat: This is the hardest part of the job since old nuts and bolts can be rusted in place. Hopefully, your old seat will remove from the bowl easily. If that’s the case, you should be home free to install the new seat. However, if you encounter a seat that won’t budge, I recommend calling a plumber so you don’t end up breaking the toilet. Compared to a seat-removal bill, the cost of replacing a cracked toilet can bowl you over.
Ÿ Master contractor and plumber Ed Del Grande is the author of “Ed Del Grande’s House Call” and hosts TV shows on Scripps Networks and HGTVPro.com. Visit eddelgrande.com or write eddelgrande@hgtvpro.com.
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