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J. Alexander's pleases even picky eaters

Everyone needs a fail-safe restaurant — a place for taking out-of-towners and getting together with fussy friends. And while J. Alexander's is a chain, its attention to detail, well-executed fare and warm, woody, low-lit setting could just win over the most cynical (or picky) diner.

As obvious a choice for groups as it is for families, J. Alexander's in Oak Brook is a boisterous place with wood-beam construction, deep red booths and an open floor plan. On busy nights, however, it can be loud, making conversations a bit difficult.

When it's time to order, know this: The portions are large — seriously large.

We started with fried calamari, served with marinara. The approach wasn't anything groundbreaking, but J. Alexander's version of this popular dish is properly prepared, with the rings tender rather than chewy. Kids (and adults, too) will like the golden, hand-breaded chicken fingers served with a mountain of fries. For something more grown-up, the fire-grilled artichokes with herb butter and rémoulade prove both pretty to look at and a tad more sophisticated in feel.

Appealingly, there are a lot of salads to choose from, including the Gold Coast, which is full of mixed greens, blue cheese, eggs, bacon and blue cheese dressing. However, you can't go wrong with the Alex's salad, its croutons, tomatoes, bacon and cukes cut to a fine dice and tossed with lightly sweet Champagne vinaigrette; add it to your entree for $5, and you'll find it to be a meal in its own right.

Having dined here once years ago, I remembered liking the rattlesnake pasta chicken and peppers; in fact, it led me to make a rendition at home. It's safe to report, this dish — coated in creamy, Cajun spice-tinged sauce — remains a solid option to date.

Since steak and seafood are primary focuses, we decided to give the fish tacos a try. They proved a wise choice. Lightly battered, generously stuffed and topped with crunchy slaw, they're both light and satisfying, and they arrive with sides of black beans and rice.

As for the burger, it's fresh-ground and draped in sharp Tillamook cheddar with classic tomato, lettuce and red onion toppings. Meanwhile shrimp with cilantro oil arrives Cajun-spiced with slaw. You'll also find a filet with béarnaise, Prime rib (sliced and in sandwich form) as well as a ham, turkey and bacon club.

For dessert, though room was in short supply, we chose a slab of the moist, decadent chocolate cake and some pucker-inducing Key lime pie.

There's a martini list and decent wine and beer selection, a fact that helps fuel crowds in its long, narrow bar, which runs the length of the dining room. Grab a clubby, cushioned stool and imbibe while waiting for meals to begin.

The servers are pros: It's clear they're used to crowds and serving them in time-crunched fashion. But that's not to say you'll feel rushed — unless, of course, you happen to notice the line of hungry folks awaiting your departure.

  The fire-grilled artichokes are paired with a rémoulade at J. Alexander’s in Oak Brook. Scott Sanders/ssanders@dailyherald.com
  Dark wood and deep booths give J. Alexander’s in Oak Brook a clubby feel. Scott Sanders/ssanders@dailyherald.com
  J. Alexander’s specializes in wood-fired fare and contemporary American cuisine. Scott Sanders/ssanders@dailyherald.com

<b>J. Alexander's</b>

1410 16th St., Oak Brook, (630) 573-8180, <a href="http://www.jalexanders.com" target="_blank">www.jalexanders.com</a>

<b>Hours: </b>11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

<b>Setting: </b>Rustic, wood-beamed and dark

<b>Cuisine: </b>New American

<b>Entrees: </b>$11 to $22