Casual Totopo serves up authentic Mexican fare

Unassumingly tucked into a strip mall between Yorktown and Oak Brook shopping malls, this tile and artifact-adorned, counter-service storefront from notable Mexican chef Dudley Nieto (Adobo Grill, La Fonda del Gusto) hits the right notes at an affordable price point, while offering a departure from the many chain eateries surrounding it.

Among its specialties are the namesake totopo (tortilla chips), which come in spinach, chipotle, traditional yellow corn and tomato-basil varieties. Though they don't taste dramatically different from one another, they're tasty — especially when used to scoop up the lovingly rendered salsas (the flaming, habanero- and tomato-based xnic-pec gets top props). Not surprisingly, they're also great with the fruity, guava-studded guacamole.

In choosing a soup — and choose, you should — both the zippy, pasilla chile-baked tortilla soup and creamy, roasty poblano-corn are worthy contenders that are comforting and rousing at once. The former, in particular, sports depth of flavor, bits of chicken and a dollop of sour cream.

The menu also features a handful of salads, and while we didn't try one, the achiote-marinated Yucatán chicken with avocados, red onions, tortilla crisps and queso fresco crumbles in jalapeno-lime vinaigrette sounded particularly tempting.

Tacos are sold in threes, which is fine if you're extra-hungry and frustrating if not. Thankfully, though, mixing and matching is allowed. It was the cochinita pibil we had the highest hopes for, though it sadly let us down. (Biting into a hunk of fat is never a good thing.) Far better were the grilled skirt steak and the slowly braised, pulled beef barbacoa, both of which are topped with cilantro and onions. Going well beyond your every day fast food, there's also pescado (fish with jalapeño slaw) and chipotle-inflected chicken tinga varieties, too.

Enchiladas are an option, as are burritos and tortas (sandwiches), with fillings that largely coincide. A standout in the latter camp is the Cubana, a memorable number stuffed with roasted pork, ham, mild panela cheese, bits of chorizo, a shower of salty queso fresco and a swath of chipotle butter.

Next time, we'd also like to try the tamales. Handmade and plated with cheese and sour cream, they come in red mole chicken, ranchera salsa-sauced roast pork and green mole-laced poblano varieties.

The place doesn't exactly scream dessert destination, but don't let that leave you skipping the moist, rich chocolate tamal. Made in house, it's served with vanilla bean-flecked ice cream. As for the churros, we really wanted to love them because generally we do. These, however, seemed overworked, the tough nubs of dough only somewhat redeemed by the cup of dipping chocolate ordered alongside. We'd be willing to give them another shot, though, provided the Mexican bread pudding with eggnog-like rompope, caramel and coconut ice cream doesn't get the better of us first.

House-made sangria and lime-y margaritas made with agave tequila are an ideal partner to whatever you order. Meanwhile, sides — from Mexican rice to elote (corn) and black beans — afford ways to further beef up the experience.

And while the place doesn't offer a full-on sit-down experience, the friendly waitstaff delivers dishes to tables; the pleasant vibe gives cause to linger; and the pocketbook-friendly pricing for high-quality dishes provides ample reason to return.

Totopo Mexican Grill

Totopo Mexican Grill

3041 Butterfield Road, Oak Brook, (630) 573-8686, totopomexicangrill.com

Cuisine: Mexican

Setting: Vibrant, counter-service taqueria

Entrees: $6.45 to $9.95

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday

Cooking class: Chef Dudley Nieto will teach you how to make some of Totopo's signature items at 11 a.m. Saturday, April 9. The class costs $20.