Narrow gaps in wood floor are difficult to hide
Q. We have lived in our house for 38 years and have removed the carpet from the hardwood floor in a bedroom. The wood is in excellent condition, except for the many spaces throughout the room. These spaces developed because the wood wasn't properly dried when the house was built. Can anything be done to fill or seal the spaces?
A. Depending on how wide the spaces between the boards are, a skilled carpenter or flooring contractor can mill strips of the same wood and insert them in these spaces. However, if they are so narrow that it makes ripping strips of wood impossible, I know of no good solution that would be attractive.
Sawdust of the same wood mixed with glue has been used to fill narrow spaces. Sisal rope of the right size has also been used between pine floorboards in attics, and varnished, for a quaint look. If someone has other suggestions, please send me the details.
Q. I just discovered the floor tiles installed some 25 years ago in our vacation home are vinyl asbestos. They have received little wear during this time and are in excellent condition. Do they represent any danger or require replacement?
A. There is no need to do anything apart from regular maintenance to keep them clean. The asbestos fibers are encapsulated in the vinyl and present no risk unless the tiles become damaged. The CPSC does not recommend removal of asbestos products that are in good condition, as the removal runs the risk of releasing loose fibers.
Q. I am thinking of replacing some of the 1930-era windows with the most energy-efficient ones available. Do you have any recommendation as to the best choices?
A. If you are considering vinyl replacement windows, look into top brands like Gorell (www.gorell.com) or Kas-Kel (www.ecoshieldwindows.com). If you prefer solid wood windows, windows with a fiberglass exterior and a wood interior, or entirely fiberglass windows, look into Marvin Windows (www.marvin.com). Andersen Windows makes entirely wood and vinyl-covered wood windows.
Q. We remodeled our kitchen about five years ago and bought ready-made cabinets from Lowe's, which did our floor plan for us. Every time I come in the back door, I can still smell the odor of the wood cabinets. Is there any way to get rid of the odor without getting rid of the cabinets? Is the odor related to the wood or the finish used on them?
A. Assuming that all surfaces are finished, with no exposed raw edges of particleboard, try applying Milsek Furniture Polish. It may help getting rid of or masking odors from the finish. In the unlikely event that there are raw particleboard edges, they should be finished with paint, stain or varnish.
Q. You wrote about a product or products that will rid a house of smells. We do not know the source of the odor but will try anything to get rid of it. The house has been thoroughly cleaned, and most rooms have been painted.
A. You must be referring to Magic-Zymes or Nok-Out. You can order Magic-Zymes online at www.magiczymes.com or by calling (866) 478-2368. Nok-Out, which works differently and has a chlorine base, can be purchased at www.nokout.com or by calling (888) 551-1927. Another choice is X-O Odor Neutralizer.
Q. Can you tell me what can be causing a sewer odor to come out of the bathroom sink? It is not a regular thing; it happens about three times a week. I have a ranch (47 years old), with 1½ baths. The problem is in the half bath. All sewer lines are clear.
A. If the sink is used regularly and has a siphon trap, it is possible that the trap drains itself because it is not properly vented. If the sink is seldom used, the trap may become dry, and sewer gases enter the house. If the sink is made of cultured marble, try spraying Clorox bleach into the overflow hole. If that does not completely solve the odor problem, remove the stopper and stuff a rag into the drain until you have plugged the overflow outlet. Then pour Clorox bleach into the overflow hole, and let it slowly seep through the rag.
Q. I have noted your frequent recommendation that the fans of high-efficiency furnaces should be run only when the furnace is on. However, when we were shopping for a new furnace, all three of the companies who gave us bids on purchase and installation recommended that the fan be set to run constantly in all seasons “for better air circulation.” Our home is more than 70 years old. Do you have any idea why the companies would have such a differing opinion from yours?
Second, is there a brand of radon testing kit that you would recommend? We tried one of the two-week kits, with two canisters placed the distance apart indicated in the instructions, and received a “high” rating on one and a “low normal” on the other. The company's lab simply averaged the two readings and said we had nothing to be concerned about, because the average reading was below the allowable levels. I would like to retest, just to be sure, because we exercise daily in a room in our basement.
A. You must have read the recommendation to run a high-efficiency fan only when the heat is on elsewhere, as I do not ever recall saying so. In fact, I run ours constantly during the heating season for the reason you cite. In the parlance of the HVAC trades, it's called CAC (constant air circulation) and it evens out the temperature throughout the house. This is especially important in houses with more than one floor, because the upper story is usually warmer than the lower. However, I see no need to run the fan in the summer when windows are open, unless you also have central air conditioning.
Regarding radon testing, I recommend the use of the alpha track kits. Instead of giving short-term readings, it provides a three-month reading, which is far more accurate. It is best to start the testing in the late fall and complete it in late winter. Follow the instructions on the kit.
Short-term readings are not accurate, as they only provide limited radon measurements. If you find readings higher than considered safe, remediation by trained professionals should take care of reducing the levels.
Q. Your article about decks claims there have been many problems with composite decking. I am about to build a deck using composite boards and would like to know what is wrong with them.
A. Some composite decking is made of plastic material (often recycled) and wood flour. Unless properly maintained, they may deteriorate over time. Maintenance means timely painting or staining after thorough cleaning to remove any pollutants.
Q. I have recently noticed a number of advertisements in local newspapers and magazines touting the many benefits of several rather expensive radiant heaters, some encased in beautiful cabinets crafted by Amish woodworkers. Are the 50-percent energy savings they claim valid?
A. This is the time of year when these ads, which are mostly hype, appear. Considering the cost of advertising in the national press, you can imagine the profit margin on these highly advertised heaters. One of them features a TV personality who is most likely highly compensated for telling you that this heater is the best thing since sliced bread. I also wonder if the Amish craftspeople who slave over these cabinets are being fairly compensated.
These heaters are still electric heaters, and you are paying a high price for something you can buy for a lot less in a hardware store. Two of these heaters the Heat Surge in the “stylish Amish cabinets” and the EdenPure will make the room more comfortable if you lower the thermostat in the rest of the house, as their advertisements claim. But any electric heater will do the same for a lot less money.
All these expensive national ads are paid for by the huge markup on these so-called breakthrough technological advances on these foreign-made heaters. Note that all the ads mention savings of “up to 50 percent,” which gives you a range between 0 and 50, depending on a number of factors.
The Amish cabinet by itself may be worth the high price as a nice piece of furniture, if you need one and want it, but why not buy it directly from the Amish so they get the full benefit of their famous craftsmanship.
My annual holiday gift suggestions: The Gordon Wrench is a small plastic wrench used to free frozen oval pot metal valve handles found under sinks, lavatories and toilet bowls. Trying to free these valves with regular wrenches or channel locks in an emergency often results in breaking them, which the Gordon Wrench prevents. You can see what it looks like and buy it online at www.gordonwrench.com. No house should be without it. It can be hung on a nail under the sink or vanity cabinet. I keep one in each location where these flimsy handles are, so I don't have to be looking for it when I need it.
Ÿ The SKrAPr is a hard plastic tool originally designed to scrape encrusted spills off glass-top cooking surfaces instead of a razor blade, but it's also great to clean barbecue grills. It comes with a mini 4-inch SKrAPr and two SKrAPr Papers to sharpen the edges (www.TheSKrAPr.com).
Ÿ Open It!, a multitool developed by women, makes it easy to open the cellophane on packages with its retractable utility knife or rugged jaws, as well as battery compartments on electronics with its small Phillips screwdriver (www.enjoyZibra.com).
Ÿ A great item for the patio, deck or beach is the Sport-Brella, an interesting all-occasions outdoor chair with an attached umbrella that folds up (www.sklz.com).
Ÿ The Yankee Flipper is a bird feeder that spins into action when a squirrel jumps on it and sends it flying; visit www.drollyankees.com.
Ÿ Books: “The Savvy Woman's Guide to Owning a Home” by Kitty Werner (RSBPress); and please forgive this bit of self-promotion, my own book “About the House with Henri de Marne,” a nearly 500-page compendium of your questions from over 35 years, which is available directly from the publisher: Upper Access Inc., www.upperaccess.com, Steve@upperaccess.com, (800) 310-8320. Both are also available in bookstores or Amazon.
Ÿ Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.
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