Polished prasino embraces eco-friendly fare
Its name means green in Greek, and prasino — yes, lowercase p does its best to live up to that philosophy.
The first, well-received location of prasino was in La Grange, and the second, also garnering much positive buzz. is right on the Fox River in St. Charles, in a newish courtyard facing a pretty fountain and neighboring restaurants.
Inside, prasino's “eco-chic” concept features all light woods (tables and floors incorporate recycled wood), minimalistic agricultural photography, light fixtures made from recycled wine bottles and planked ceilings.
Since it caters to a wide variety of dietary philosophies, the restaurant proudly brandishes gluten-free this, vegetarian that and organic everything (even the nice roster of micro brews), with familiar breakfast, lunch and dinner items and a juice bar. Don't expect just tofu, though; prasino also caters to carnivores.
This sort of sensible eating doesn't always come cheap; one appetizer — the lobster stuffed avocado — is as much as $14. (A burger, however, is completely acceptable at $9.50.)
There is a smaller selection of red meat (Niman Ranch sourced ground beef, skirt steak and lamb), than there is seafood (tilapia, scallops, salmon, Ahi tuna, black cod, halibut), and the menu is abundant much like the portions. Recent specials included honey-braised scallops with curried lentils and a gluten-free penne.
A vegetarian, whole-wheat flatbread Margherita was a long, rectangular affair that packed good crunch beneath super fresh mozzarella and dollops of creamy pesto. A gluten-free, half avocado with a mound of chopped lobster sat over what should have been more mango salsa and chili beurre fondue since it felt a tad too clean, almost timid, despite the generous helping of the tasty coveted crustacean.
Entrees show a similar consciousness regarding health and sourcing. Nothing is fried and all fish is line caught. Almond-crusted Hawaiian tilapia baked, and set over a sweet orange-basil beurre blanc preserved the steaming aromas from the oven until the fork pierced its delicate almond crust.
A vegetarian, gluten-free roasted beet salad with half-crimson meaty beets, sweet and spicy half walnuts and goat cheese had perky mixed greens and a light, crisp feel.
Even the red meat did not let us down: A perfectly executed medium-rare Niman Ranch burger had its juices duly soaked up by a sweet brioche bun. It was delicious with a well-thought-out layer of mushrooms on the bottom bun. An olive oil and cucumber infused orzo salad felt better than the usual fries.
A trio of sorbets seemed like a good choice for dessert since we were looking to ease up, but the three overscented scoops were disappointing. The coffee, however prasino's own brand was strong and flavorful.
The service was polite and anticipatory, even if it took a few minutes until our drinks were brought to the table.
Still, as the second incarnation of a family-owned, locally sourced eating establishment that focuses on environmentally friendly food practices, prasino is polished and accessible.
prasino
51 S. First St., St. Charles, (630) 908-5200, prasino.com
Cuisine: Contemporary American, featuring vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free items
Setting: Eco-chic
Entrees: $9.50 to $29
Hours: Breakfast 7 to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Lunch 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.