Use that can of tuna to make tonight's dinner in a snap
With all the restaurant menus flaunting "fresh ahi tuna" and "sushi-quality tuna," that humble can on your pantry shelf may not seem worthy of respect. But look again: That can of tuna could represent tonight's dinner, without a whole lot of fuss. And we're not talking tuna-noodle casserole.
Not that there's anything wrong with tuna-noodle casserole. But the surprise to many home cooks is that canned tuna can be easily turned into a number of sophisticated, tasty meals.
I was thrilled to find canned tuna getting respect in Mollie Katzen's latest book, "Get Cooking" (2009 HarperStudio), a cookbook that delivers what its subtitle promises: "150 Simple Recipes to Get You Started in the Kitchen." This is a book that would be welcomed by teenagers learning their way around the stove, by college grads renting their first apartments or by anyone who lacks confidence in his or her culinary skills.
Those of a certain age will remember Katzen from her wildly popular "Moosewood Cookbook," first published in 1977 and reissued in 2000. It charmed home cooks with its hand-lettered recipes and hand-drawn illustrations, and it's still a bible for vegetarian cooks. In "Get Cooking," however, Katzen gives in to her omnivore tendencies, including recipes for fish, poultry and meat. She confesses that she still feels most at home with "plant cuisine," and includes many meatless recipes, but it's kind of fun to watch her go to town on brisket, roast chicken and steak fajitas. And tuna. Her recipe for tuna burgers is simple and delicious.
Before we proceed to the recipe, however, we should talk turkey about tuna. The No. 1 concern for most people is health, and you've probably read that canned tuna is high in mercury. The National Resources Defense Council (nrdc.org) has a handy chart that indicates that an adult weighing between 130 and 150 pounds should eat a can of chunk-light tuna no more than once every three days and a can of white-meat tuna (albacore) no more than once every 10 days. That still gives us plenty of days to enjoy tuna.
The second concern for many is the sustainability of our fisheries. The Monterey Bay Aquarium (MontereyBayAquarium.org), which runs the acclaimed Seafood Watch program, states on its website that consumers should look for canned tuna certified by the Marine Stewardship Council. The most sustainably fished tuna is troll- and pole-and-line-caught albacore (white meat) from the U.S. Pacific, and second choice is wild-caught albacore (white) and skipjack (light) from anywhere. The website advises that "Consumers should avoid all canned light tuna that does not specify skipjack (including) unlabeled cans, or those clearly labeled as bigeye, yellowfin or tongol tuna."
Katzen's recipe is simple enough for even a rank beginner, and tasty enough for the fussiest gourmand.
• Marialisa Calta is the author of "Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family." More atmarialisacalta.com.
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