Food, decor make an impression at Cafe Mistiko

Named after a mysterious or "secret" coffee shop at the foothills of the ancient Acropolis, Cafe Mistiko bar and lounge aims for a mystique of its own. Despite an unassuming strip mall facade facing Milwaukee Avenue in Deerfield, the interior is quite flashy and striking in its conscious effort to impress. And it does so because it's backed up by a solid food menu and stiff, nicely priced cocktails.

Motif: Is there such a thing as Nouveau-European? Well, here it is. Multicolored seating elements upholstered in faux suede (think rainbow palette with a few darker notes) range from metal-backed modern chairs and high bar stools, to various benches and even several oversized, dramatically angled fauteuils and curvy, fluffy pillow-enforced couches. Seven pool tables and dark red and black sponged walls make for quite the "look at me" vibe despite the fact the crowd is hardly unfriendly or standoffish.

Crowd: If you've ever been to a Euro bar, you'll know the dirty looks you get should you suffer to be from a non-European origin. Fear not - you won't get this sort of treatment here. An early-30s crowd slowly gathers as the evening progresses, more keen on their goings-on than your outfit.

Service: Polite young women in their 20s with apt food and drinks knowledge make sure that we are taken care of promptly. Food and drink service is prompt as well.

Liquid consumption: A wine-centric drinks menu comprised of selections from California, Greece and Italy is complemented by great specials, like Grey Goose mixed drinks for $4.50 on the night we went. In addition, you'll find about a dozen martinis on offer, and for the young at heart a whole page of bombs: car bombs, Irish bombs, Jaeger bombs. Beer selections are a footnote.

Food: Mediterranean overtures in the appetizers section (Greek platter of air-dried meats, flaming saganaki cheese, souvlaki) are offset by several more universal bites (calamari, smoked salmon platter and bruschetta). But a menu section devoted entirely to various crepes, another to paninis and one with about a dozen salads indicate that whomever's in the kitchen doesn't like the term bar food.

Sounds: A CD churned out sounds that ranged from house tracks with familiar mid-'90s bass lines to the Black Eyed Peas to Lady Gaga.

Parking: Strip mall parking at its finest.

Overall: Cafe Mistiko is not your local beer pub. With a distinctively European - and more importantly, quality - feel, the cafe more than flirts with upscale casual.

Café Mistiko20510 Milwaukee Ave., Deerfield, (847) 520-1892, www.cafemistiko.com Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday, noon to 1 a.m. SundayFalse14092000Gus Koulas manages Cafe Mistiko in Deerfield.Gilbert R. Boucher II | Staff PhotographerFalse