Quality, quantity go hand in hand at elegant Fonda Isabel
Whenever I hear a restaurant being described as "upscale," I usually imagine a place with high prices, tiny portions and slightly off-putting service.
I thank the relatively new Fonda Isabel in Lombard for erasing all those images.
Located on Roosevelt Road in a location previously occupied by an Italian restaurant, Fonda Isabel offers high-quality pan-Mexican fare - and lots of it - in an elegant yet unpretentious setting. Call it "upscale" if you want, but Fonda Isabel proves you can get top-notch food without losing either quality or quantity.
"We want to offer a different choice of Mexican food than is available around here now," said manager Felipe Enrique. "We are upscale but very traditional to the food you would find in Mexico, rather than the more usual Tex-Mex food found here."
My two dining companions and I visited on a slower Monday night, but we received excellent service from the host/waiter from the start. As with most Mexican establishments, our host quickly brought chips and salsa to our table, however, we were pleased to see four different salsas ranging from mild tomato to super hot habanera, and our host took time to describe each.
We chose the flautas as an appetizer and were not disappointed. Crispy rolls filled with chicken or shrimp came with ample sides of guacamole (a little mild), refried beans, sour cream and a surprise of slightly picked red cabbage.
One of the highlights of the night was the corn and poblano pepper soup - creamy and hearty with the perfect touch of heat and just the right amount of cheese.
A large menu, bolstered by daily specials, offers a wide range of regional Mexican dishes, including an ample selection of seafood. Chef and owner Jose Oliver - who also operated Westmont's Taco Grill & Salsa Bar - spent eight years collecting recipes from across Mexico.
I decided to stay in the "recognizable" range and selected the enchilada trio - three large and delicious enchiladas, one each of chicken, pork and cheese. Each was topped by a different sauce, including a wonderful and spicy mole. The dish came with a large helping of Spanish rice and fresh, flavorful refried beans. I also enjoyed the extra side we ordered of rajas poblanas elote: fresh corn kernels mixed with grilled pepper strips.
My friend ordered the brochetas - a selection of skewered beef, shrimp and scallops wrapped in bacon. The dish came with a huge portion of white rice and fresh-grilled thick-cut zucchini and onions. While the quality of the ingredients was high, the bacon unfortunately overwhelmed the dish.
The tacos de cochinita pibil - a deconstructed (to use an "upscale" term) pork taco dish that easily could have fed two - arrived with what seemed like a pound of slightly spicy pulled pork. It was served with a huge portion of Spanish rice and cooked beans; a separate heating dish was full of fresh, warm flour tortillas.
We all agreed that the evening ended perfectly with our choices for dessert. Freshly made churros were drizzled with just the right amount of chocolate sauce, sugar and cinnamon. We also picked the pastel tres leche, a wholesome "three-milk" cake that melted in your mouth and was so light that you could easily convince yourself that it contained no calories.
Fonda Isabel is one of the best high-quality Mexican restaurants that I have ever eaten at in the suburbs. I will definitely be back.
<p class="factboxheadblack">Fonda Isabel</p>
<p class="News">10W333 Roosevelt Road, Lombard, (630) 691-2222, <a href="http://fondaisabel.com" target="new">fondaisabel.com</a></p>
<p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> High-quality upscale pan-Mexican</p>
<p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Somewhat elegant atmosphere</p>
<p class="News"><b>Entrees:</b> $11.95 to $29.95</p>
<p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 1 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday</p>