Naf Naf Grill the place for delicious Middle Eastern fare
En route to Naf Naf Grill, an oasis of good food in a one-time Taco Bell, you pass chain after fast food chain. Naf Naf is different, and since everything is freshly prepared, you're immediately challenged not to judge a book by its cover. Among its four partners is Sahar Sander, who owned kosher restaurant Taboun Grill in the city's Rogers Park neighborhood.
Signs of the restaurant's former adobe-style occupant - curved archways, brick walls - are apparent, yet its muted yellow and red walls, adorned with food-art photography, provide relief. Not to be overlooked are the scents - fresh-baked pita wafting from the oven, just-chopped parsley, aromatic spices - which further distance Naf Naf's from its building's past.
We searched for a menu board (there isn't one) and instead found printed copies to the right of the cash register of the counter-service spot. As we perused the small selection of offerings, a friendly woman behind the counter began making heartfelt suggestions to newcomers. The staff appeared to know loyal customers, who flood the humble wood tables during lunch and dinner rush.
Really, everything we sampled was good. However, one thing definitely stood out: the downy, warm discs of pita. Made on site, they're tasty enough to cause a traffic jam. Sometimes simple things are transformative, and these, frankly, change everything.
We started with an order of smooth, creamy tahini-infused hummus, which is doused with olive oil, sprinkled with paprika and served with briny pickles and olives on the side. While not particularly pronounced in flavor - it would benefit from added lemon zing - it set the tone for the fresh flavors to come. Next, we dove into finely chopped Israeli salad, an herbaceous blend of cucumbers and tomatoes. We wholeheartedly enjoyed it on its own as well as scooped into the aforementioned pita.
The moist, chopped chicken shawarma sandwich is plenty appealing, too. Generously seasoned and tahini-laced, it's crowned with bits of cilantro-flecked salad, adding color and crunch. On the side, we tried the killer house-made, hand-cut "chips."
Understandably, we also were drawn to the crisply breaded chicken schnitzel sandwich. It's sprinkled with sesame seeds and tucked into a fluffy pita pocket with Israeli salad and a slather of hummus. When boosted with a healthy dash of hot sauce, it provides a lesson in contrast: hot and cold, crunchy and chewy, fresh, fiery and fried. Since you won't find it at all Middle Eastern restaurants - it's the result of European Jews, who came to Israel - it's a real treat.
Not to be overlooked, the falafel here is garlicky-good - moist inside with a crispy exterior. Get it with a fluffy pile of basmati rice or a cup of thick, warming lentil soup on the side (available when you order a combo).
Other options include chicken breast, chicken thigh, beef tenderloin or kifta kebabs (available in plate or sandwich form) as well as rarely seen purple cabbage salad and tabbouleh. Hummus and baba ghannouj are available in two sizes; both also can be topped with falafel or shawarma for a few bucks more.
Soda is served by the can. Sweet, flaky baklava and intensely sugary date or walnut mamoul (cookies) serve as the only desserts.
If it's a formal experience you seek, be aware you won't find it here. However, if you're in search of honest, fresh and affordable fare, you're all-but-guaranteed to be pleased with what you encounter at this gem of a joint. Can't get enough? Expansion is on the horizon; future locations are expected to open in Schaumburg and Chicago.
Naf Naf GrillInfo: 1095 E. Ogden Ave., Naperville, (630) 904-7200, www.nafnafgrill.comCuisine: IsraeliSetting: Casual counter service eateryEntrees: $4.99 to $11.99Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. SundayAccepts: major credit cardsFalse20001297Chicken shawarma comes in a freshly baked pita. You can pair the sandwich with homemade fries at Naf Naf restaurant in Naperville.Bev Horne | Staff PhotographerFalse