Midwest winemakers prove a tenacious lot

Not long ago in wine's time line, U.S. winemaking flourished from sea to shining sea.

Illinois, Georgia and Kansas were among states recognized by the USDA for winemaking enterprise in 1880. At the Paris Exposition of 1900, wineries from Florida, North Carolina, Ohio and others garnered three dozen medals, winning coveted spots on wine lists across the continent.

Nature was not on our side. Traditional European grapes transplanted far from their Mediterranean home succumbed to mildew and frost, so growers developed hybrids, such as Seyval Blanc to withstand the Midwest's cold and Muscadine that thrives in Florida's humidity.

If Nature couldn't deter the industry, our fellow man could. In 1919, the 18th Amendment prohibited the sale and transport of alcohol throughout the nation. That ban was repealed in 1933 yet a tangle of regulations that choked weakened producers remained.

American winemakers proved as tenacious as the vines they grow. As of 2008, according to the Wine Business Monthly, U.S. wineries totaled 6,101 throughout 50 states.

Some of Illinois' 60 wineries offer their wares from on-site tasting rooms only; others online or in area specialty shops; some have achieved relatively widespread distribution. Here are three wineries to add to your local shopping list:

Glunz Family Winery, Grayslake: In 1879, Louis Glunz established a wine and beer business on north Wells Street, still respected today as a fine wine and spirits shop, The House of Glunz. Added to the family's achievements as champions of international beverage is its winery, managed by winemaker Joe Glunz, Jr. The catalog includes popular varieties including a flavory and refreshing Chardonnay; fruit wines and seasonal specialties including the winter warmer, Glunz Glogg. Winery and tasting room are at 888 E. Belvidere Road, Suite 211. An off-site tasting room's in quaint in Long Grove. (847) 548-9463 or gfwc.com.

Lynfred Winery, Roselle: In 1979, Fred and Lynn Koehler established Lynfred Winery, restoring a historic property that today includes an enchanting bed and breakfast, an epicurean dining facility and Illinois' largest and longest continually operating winery. The winery produces 50 varieties, including award-winning grape, fruit and specialty wines, all available at their beautifully appointed tasting room and gourmet shop at 15 S. Roselle Road. Additional tasting rooms in Naperville and Wheaton. (888) 298-9463 or lynfredwinery.com.

Mary Michelle Winery/Illinois Cellars, Carollton: In 1999, a group of California investors planted 80 vineyard acres in the lower Illinois River Valley with established hybrid grapes, new cultivars and experimental varieties; a world-class winery followed in 2003. While no tasting room exists, quality has won placements in Midwest retail shops and restaurants. Look for Mary Michelle's Norton, a deep plush red with herb and fruit complexity; Illinois Cellars' Velvet Red, aptly named with sweet, plush flavor; and Illinois Cellars' Apple Wine (see Ross' Choice). (217) 942-6250 or illinois-wine.com.

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month. Contact her at food@dailyherald.com.