Even skeptics may try this vegan dish and like it

It has been more than a century since nutrition crusaders such as John Harvey Kellogg (yes, the inventor of Cornflakes) began espousing the health benefits of a vegetarian diet.

Yet many people still look askance at meat-free eating. When it comes to veganism - which excludes all animal products, including eggs, milk, cheese and honey - lots of people roll their eyes.

That's a nonsensical response, because many of the meals we eat, like breakfast (eggs and toast, cereal and milk, pancakes and waffles), are often vegetarian. And many may be vegan as well - think of a salad, a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich or spaghetti with tomato sauce. Most of us are occasional vegetarians and, as the title of a new book suggests, "accidental vegans."

Devra Gartenstein, author of "The Accidental Vegan" (Celestial Arts), capitalizes on this fact, encouraging people to embrace a sampling of vegan dishes. Gartenstein, who runs a vegetarian restaurant in Seattle, Wash., began eating vegan in an effort to lower her cholesterol. Environmental, moral or spiritual concerns are also motivators for adopting a less meaty diet.

"I'm wary of absolutes and simple answers," Gartenstein says. "Eating well is an ongoing quest, and I want to approach it with an open mind and a sense of humor."

Vegan recipes are all around, so wake up and smell the (organic, shade-grown, fair-trade) coffee. Sometimes it's a matter of just leaving the cheese out of a dish you already cook.

For a Hearty Potato-and-Leek Soup, pick up "The Vegan Cook's Bible" (2009 Robert Rose), written by another "accidental" vegan, Pat Crocker, who describes her diet as "flexitarian." (Recipe also available at dailyherald.com/food.)

By any measure, it's a smart way to eat.