California Chardonnay sheds oak, wins fans

I have a confession: I'm beginning to like California Chardonnay.

Maybe it's the vintage. The currently available 2007s are lush yet refreshing, with layers of fruit flavor energized with bright acidity.

It may be because I can actually afford the stuff. Wine lovers are winners in this economy. Even the finest producers have discounted prices to reduce inventory; emptying tanks, barrels and warehouses in preparation for the 2009 harvest, in full swing at the time of this writing.

More so, I think, California winegrowers are coming to terms with Nature and the nature of their craft.

Not long ago, "Burgundian" was the highest praise a California Chardonnay could receive. Winemakers pursued that Grail with techniques mastered by their French counterparts.

In Burgundy's cold climate and limestone soil, barrel and malo-lactic fermentations, less stirring and small barrel maturation serve the vignerons well, softening their Chardonnay's laser-sharp acidity and firm mineral flavor to create wines of earthy mystery, a vinous expression of French film star Jeanne Moreau.

But the splendor of California's rich sunshine and fertile soil is ripeness, an amplitude in fruit flavor (though often lacking acid) that grates against oak.

Today, California winemakers are rolling back the barrels, with tank-fermented wines winning sexy monikers "naked" or "virgin" Chardonnay Malo-lactic is curbed, leaving bodacious fruit outlined by shining acidity ­­Marilyn Monroe poured into a satin gown.

For $20 and up, you'll find opulent tropical, tree fruit and/or fig flavors balanced by acidity and carefully spiced with oak in 2007 Chardonnays including Beringer Napa Valley Private Reserve, Calera Mt. Harlan, MacRostie Wildcat Mountain and Truchard Napa Valley Carneros.

For under $20, choose the satisfying, clean and refreshing Chardonnays from Angeline Sonoma, Menage a Trois Folie a Deux and Redtree.

And be certain to ask your retailer for her favorite deal of the week. There are plenty on the shelves now and plenty more to come.

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.

<p class=factboxtext12col><b>J. Schram</b> 2001</p> <p class=factboxtext12col>Schramsberg</p> <p class=factboxtext12col>Napa and Sonoma, Calif.</p> <p class=factboxtext12col>• Suggested retail and availability: About $100 at fine wine shops</p> <p class=factboxtext12col>(distributed by Wirtz Beverage, Wood Dale)</p> <p class=factboxtext12col>One of Chardonnay's greatest roles is in Champagne and other fine sparkling wines where she adds firm backbone and minerality to the fruit flavor contributed by other players, including Pinot Noir. This Chardonnay-focused wine from America's pre-eminent sparkling producer combines creamy texture with layers of bold flavor - roasted nuts and baked brioche, white peach and tropical fruits - for an elegant companion to shellfish and other seafood, rich white meats and pasta (think risotto with prosciutto) and light red meats.</p>