Beef pairs with sparklings, whites and reds

The brisket smoked long and slow until its 16th hour when - as if by divine culinary intervention - it burst into full flame. Our host - one ear cocked for local law enforcement, the other for more local spouse - fought back the blaze with a handy apple cider marinade - then reached into the inferno to pluck the beef, glistening with caramelized and singed fat, spice rub and mesquite smoke, encasing the run-down-the-chin good juices within. We hordes followed, as he bore the sizzling prize inside to be sliced and served with salads, slaws and wraps of international origin, with two thoughts in mouth and mind: Let's eat! and Which wine?

The possibilities were endless. This beef-fest being by and for wine geeks, the bar groaned with Champagne, Shiraz, Barbaresco, Kabinett and countless others.

But whether your event is a bacchanal or family affair (or both), whether your recipe is Texas-style barbecue, corned or braised, wine and slow-cooked brisket are BFFs.

From my favorites below, pair leaner dishes (from the flat cut) with lighter, often good-value wine; flavory recipes (from the fatty point) with more flavory, structured wine.

Rose sparkler: Dry rose sparklers have near-red roundness of flavor and bubbles to scrub the palate clean. Brut Rose Champagne offers stalwart structure at lofty cost. Look for small producers, who don't add advertising dollars to your price tag, such as Jean Laurent Brut Blanc de Noirs ($50.) Rose Spanish cava, such as Gran Sarao Rosada ($12) is a good-value alternative.

Riesling: Whether dry or sweet, well-made Riesling's acid cuts through fat like a knife, while balancing smoky or spicy flavors with mouthwatering fruit. Seek out the 2007 vintage of German Kabinett ($20-ish) or Spatlese ($20 up) or Brooks Willamette Valley ($20) with elegance and complexity that belies its New World origins.

Malbec: Argentina's signature red is made with meat in mind with lusty fruit restrained only by firm tannin. For power and elegance, try BenMarco (Hebrew for 'son of Marco') or La Posta (both about $20), or for quality/value, Crios ($15) or Maipe ($12.)

Other Reds: Look for rich fruit and firm tannin in wines such as Barbaresco (Produtorri del Barbaresco, about $40), Cal-Ital varieties (Palmina Docetto or Barbera $20-ish) and Shiraz/Syrah (Yering Station, $20-ish; Brownstone, $10-ish).

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.