German wine labels long, but contain a lot of information

Much is written about German wine labels, specifically they're too long and life's too short.

Personally, I prefer a label that conveys as closely as possible the wine's sensory experience, rather than the New World's anything goes labeling. Sure, the label reads Chardonnay, but is it dry or sweet? Oaky or not? And what does one a critter on the bottle have to do with the wine (BTW: marsupials are out; dogs are in).

Still, a full explanation of German labels would sop up more words than my esteemed editor would allow. So, we'll focus on essentials.

German labels detail the origins of flavor - grape, soil, climate and culture - with a unique focus on ripeness, perfectly sensible in this northerly country where just getting a healthy grape through harvest is an achievement.

Some important terms include:

Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (but everyone says QbA): Grapes from a specified region lacking fermentable ripeness, often enriched with sugar. QbA's are simple and grape-y, suitable for casual sipping. A well-made QbA is Clean Slate with flavors balancing green apple tart and ripe nectarine sweet ($12).

Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (QmP): Fully-ripe grapes from a specified region. QmP's hallmark is thrilling acidity and mineral complexity. The excellent 2007 vintage is arriving in the area now; check with your retailer for specific labels. The six levels of QmP are:

Kabinett: Racy green apple and lime in a crystalline frame, for an elegant cocktail and complement to light but flavorful dishes (smoked salmon; Thai cuisine). (Under $20 and up.)

Spatlese: Late-harvested grapes with additional ripeness. Lush with flavors akin to tropical fruits (pineapple, guava) are rich enough for dinnertime (schnitzels, curried lobster, roast rabbit with morel sauce). (Under $20 and up.)

Auslese: Extra-ripe, preserved fruit and savory flavors for less-sweet desserts, pate and blue cheeses. (Starting in the mid-$20s)

Beerenauslese (BA): Individually picked, overripe grapes. Honeyed stone and tropical fruit flavors are luxurious to sip solo or to complement baked fruit desserts and rich cheese. ($40 up to several $100)

Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA): Individually picked grapes, raisined by the edelfaule mold make nectar-sweet wines of tremendous concentration that confound food pairing. Extremely rare, TBAs start at more than $200.

While seemingly delicate, fine Riesling showcases a death-defying balance of sugar and acid, allowing even Kabinett decades of ageability and complexity, which may be one source of Germany's proverb, "Es gibt ältere Weinbauer als alte Ärzte," (There are more old winemakers than doctors).

• Contact Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross at food@dailyherald.com.