Thermostat location can be an issue
Q. We recently had an energy audit performed on our home. Among other recommendations, the auditor suggested that we move our thermostat from our living room, which faces southeast, to a center wall in our home. He believes that this will balance the temperature better throughout our home. Does this suggestion sound as if it has merit? I do not want to spend the money to do this if the impact might be minimal.
A. Did the auditor calculate what potential savings might be achieved if the thermostat were moved, or did he simply address better balancing of the system? If the suggestion to move the thermostat is simply to balance the heat distribution but you are happy with the present situation, you may choose not to spend the money to relocate the thermostat. If there may be some savings in energy costs, and you plan on staying in the house for long enough to amortize the cost of the relocation while increasing your comfort, you may want to consider it.
Q. Our ranch-style home is nearly 14 years old. Over time, the concrete sidewalk to the front door has become stained black. We're not sure whether it is mold or something else. All efforts to clean it have been unsuccessful. Do you have any suggestions on how we can correct the problem without replacing the walk? There is only grass along both sides of the walk. Trees are located in the green belt and on the sides and back of the house, but leaves do not cover the walk in the fall.
A. Try washing the sidewalk with a solution made of equal parts fresh Clorox bleach and water. Do not rinse, but be careful not to use too much that could run off and kill vegetation. A safer solution to use is one made with sodium percarbonate, an effective, biodegradable and environmentally safe cleaner - try Oxy-Boost, oxyboost.com, (866) 699-2667.
Q. My toilet has two mounting bolts on each side of the bowl. The one closest to the wall is approximately 12 inches, which I assume means it has a 12-inch rough-in. The second bolt is approximately 5 to 6 inches behind the first. I have never seen a toilet with four mounting bolts. The house is 50 to 60 years old, and I believe the toilet is original because the make is a Sears Homart brand. What can I expect when I remove the toilet in regards to the flange mounting and four bolts? I don't want any surprises that would make a difficult replacement.
A. Some old toilets have four bolts; two were mounted on the toilet flange at the 12-inch rough-in, and the other two holes were to screw into the floor. You should have no problem replacing the toilet with a new one with only two holes, but you should also replace the closet flange with the new O-ring type.
Q. We have a problem with pigeons roosting on our roof. Obviously, they leave a terrible mess. Is there some way we can discourage them from landing on our roof and/or under the eaves?
A. You can try setting up a large fake owl on the ridge of the roof. You can buy one in hardware stores or get Prowler Owl or Terror-Eyes from Bird-X, bird-x.com, (800) 860-0473. Bird-X also sells sonic repellents to chase a variety birds.
Q. My 1961 ranch house was built on top of what used to be a lake. We have well water, and the well is shallow because of the high water level. Unfortunately, there was never any tar sealing of the outside cinder blocks, and I believe this is the reason for the water damage we have had in our basement. The water seeps into the basement when we have a heavy downpour of rain. We were going to rent a backhoe and dig up the perimeter of the house and lay stones/gravel, but wanted to seek your input first. Currently, we have some shrubs alongside the house, and I think I read in one of your articles that we should not have anything alongside the house, except for grass.
A. If the leakage occurs during or after a heavy downpour, it may be due to poor grading. Repairing it may solve your problem at little cost. The goal is to have the grade slope gently away from the house in order to prevent water from percolating in the soil to saturation or running down to the footings along the foundation until it finds a weak spot. The reason I often mention not planting shrubs and flowers against a foundation is because they are generally set in flat beds and mulched (which adds insult to injury). A healthy stand of grass on a gentle slope is far better, as it helps the evacuation of water and holds the soil together with its thick root system, drawing moisture out of it.
If the leakage occurs hours or days after the downpours, you may be dealing with a high water table. This may be much harder to take care of, as what you propose may not fix your problem. A better solution is to capture the water in a fiberglass drain installed inside at the base of the walls, leading to a sump pump. Basement waterproofing contractors install this type of system, which is expensive.
Q. I have a 40-by-55-inch, double-pane window that I purchased about 20 or more years ago. This winter and March, I had water between the panes. What do I have to do to stop this mess?
A. Unfortunately, the seal between the two panes is broken, which allows moisture and other pollutants to get between them. Some firms claim that they can remove the moisture and dust, and reseal the dividers, but I have no experience with this process. So I am reluctant to recommend it until I hear from several people who have had it done and can vouch that it has withstood the test of time - several years. Otherwise, why spend the money for it when you would be better off replacing the 20-plus-years-old glass and benefit from its warranty?
Q. I have an asphalt driveway that is 8 years old. I have never had it sealed. I would like to have it sealed this year, but noticed numerous oil stains from a plow contractor who cleared snow this winter. I tried using cat litter, but it does not appear to have removed the oil. Is there anything on the market I can use to remove the oil stains before I have it sealed?
A. Try sprinkling TSP crystals on the oil stains, then sprinkle hot water on the crystals and scrub the areas with a stiff brush with a long handle. Let the mixture stand for 30 minutes, and flush with a strong jet from your garden hose. Repeat if necessary. If any residual oil remains, apply a light coating of shellac to seal it before seal coating.
For readers who have asphalt driveways that are not yet sealed: Seal coating is very much worthwhile. The best time to seal an asphalt driveway is in the heat of summer. It's best to wait two years before considering applying a sealer. It usually takes that long for the oils in the asphalt to evaporate and for the asphalt to harden. If your driveway is in the shade, you probably need to wait even longer than two years - until the asphalt turns gray. As asphalt ages and its oils dry up, it absorbs water and can begin to deteriorate. It is also susceptible to damage from the oils that may leak from vehicles. There are basically two kinds of sealers: shiny and dull. Sealers that dry shiny are asphalt-based - such as Gilsonite, which is a cutback asphalt with a solvent. These are less common nowadays. The best sealers have a matte finish and are coal tar-based. Coal tar is derived from coal burning and is heavily used in the production of aluminum. A new type of asphalt-base emulsion has been developed with a matte finish and resembles coal-tar emulsion. It's fine to use.
Either coal-tar emulsion or asphalt-base emulsion can be slippery if there is no sand in the mix. Be sure that the mix you buy contains a sand filler. Monsey and other rubberized products are very good. All sealers must be applied in thin coats, or they will develop craze cracks referred to as "alligatoring." Two thin coats are far better than one thicker one for that reason. Once alligator cracks form, the sealer is no longer waterproof as water gets in the cracks.
Q. My son lives in Austin, Texas, and just bought a 10- to 20-year-old home and is looking for ways to make it more energy efficient. He sent this information on a radiant-barrier insulation guide for attics, and I thought I would send it along. It is new to me, and interesting. South Texas has different issues (heat rather than cold), but it seems plenty of good insulation installed properly with good soffit and ridge venting of the attic is still the primary defense - maybe roof vents, too. In South Texas, I would think light-colored roofing is a must, too. What do you recommend for their environment, assuming they have good windows, use shades during the day, and keep the house closed?
A. Radiant barriers are very effective and well suited for the South Texas climate. This does not mean that there is no need for regular insulation. In hot climates, high levels of insulation help reduce the air-conditioning load and make the house more comfortable at night, as the heat that builds up in the insulation takes longer to reach the radiant point in the rooms below. The radiant-barrier insulation together with high levels of regular insulation is an ideal solution. An externally baffled ridge vent set over a 2-inch slot at the peak of the roof in conjunction with continuous soffit venting are essential parts of the system, as they allow any heat buildup to escape. This is illustrated in the radiant-heat instructions. There is no need for additional roof vents. A white roof is best to keep as much heat radiating back to the sky. But he should also have zinc strips installed just below the ridge vent to keep algae from growing in the humid Texas climate.
• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.
© 2009, United Feature Syndicate Inc.