Bartlett's Bistro 59 thinking big but focusing small

Inventive "small plate" menus have become a familiar concept on the Chicago restaurant scene in the new millennium, but we have no more than a handful in the suburbs, including the new Bistro 59 in Bartlett.

Co-owner and chef Eric Davis, and Barb Pauls, who is a former owner of Edible Art in the same space, offer a multicultural approach to a dining style that's interesting and fun.

Everyone shares several appetizer-size portions that add up to a meal.

So far this newcomer shows promise, and Davis continues to tweak the food and beverage options as he processes feedback from a city-savvy suburban clientele.

The menu is a bit limited now, but Davis plans to beef up the selection in September with items like mini filet burgers, shrimp Diablo, scallops, pastas and bacon-wrapped dates.

A casual breakfast and lunch spot by day, Bistro 59 lights the candles and breaks out the wine at 5 p.m., becoming as cozy as possible in a former Caribou Coffee shop in a busy shopping plaza.

Caribou's signature knotty pine floors and trim remain, as well as the stone fireplace; lantern-like pendulum lights add to the warm, rustic style.

The 30 seats were nearly empty early on a recent weeknight, so service was especially attentive.

The moderately priced wine list draws largely from California, France and Italy with a few selections from New Zealand and Australia. Virtually all are available by the glass or split, from $5 to $19, or by the bottle, from $22 to $250 for Dom Pérignon.

Not a wine expert? The list briefly describes each type so you can order like a pro.

Likewise, the European cheeses and cured meats are each described so you can avoid that "perfectly stinky" Pere Joseph variety from Belgium and head for something milder.

Each order includes a choice of three, with one accompaniment, such as marinated mushrooms or capers.

We took a tour of Europe with a slightly sweet Fol Epi cow's milk cheese from France, similar to Swiss and Emmental, a firm, pungent Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy and Sage Derby from England, our favorite. Semihard and mottled green, the sage flavor is well balanced with the mild cow's milk cheese.

For accompaniments we chose classic marinated Kalamata olive salad, a winner, and crostini, but we needed more of the latter - and why not? Bread is cheap - be generous.

Cured meats include several game options, like the terrific elk summer sausage, a leaner meat, but rich and robust. Hot peppers pump up the flavor in sopressata, a specialty salami of southern Italy, but the delicately sweet taste of Crespone salami was too low-key for us.

Of the bruschettas, the full-bodied carpaccio version was a nice change of pace, once the meat thawed (it was frozen, probably for easier slicing). Filet mignon is layered on garlic butter crostini with smoky chipotle mayo for dipping.

Other bruschettas include a traditional with diced tomatoes and basil, or with buffalo mozzarella, balsamic vinegar and tomatoes.

Seafood options are abundant, including oysters on the half shell, baked clams and calamari.

But don't miss the crab-stuffed mushroom caps, laced with garlic and onions and topped with melted Swiss.

Cheese fondue with a mix of dippers is a great idea, especially for sharing with wine, but the version we tried missed the mark. The combination of Emmenthaler, Gruyere and Swiss tasted too strongly of Kirsch brandy and wasn't well blended or creamy.

The fondue comes with a choice of three dippers, including bread and apples, which were fine. But the broccoli was overcooked.

Sharing is encouraged at dessert, too, but that's where I falter, especially when chocolate fondue is involved. Warmed by a candle, the dark richness was irresistible on sliced strawberries, pound cake and marshmallows. Or you could opt for grapes, apples and cantaloupe.

If chocolate's not your thing, share four mini cannoli or four cheesecake bites.

Soon to come: Bistro 59 expects to have a full-service liquor license so it can introduce a martini menu and other cocktails and sell packaged wine.

Bistro 59

941 S. Route 59, Bartlett, (630) 540-2855. www.bistro59.com

Cuisine: Small plates

Setting: Casual, warm

Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Price range: Small plates and desserts, $6 to $10