Enhance, don't replace quality windows
Q. Ran across two ads in the Daily Herald here in Palatine, and am wondering if you might have some thoughts on the subject. Both seem to be franchises of a company in the South but have locations here in the Midwest, one in Schaumburg, and the other in Milwaukee. They have very similar Web addresses. They both cover the same process and have a 20-year warranty. Naturally, this would be the more economical move for anyone who's satisfied with their existing windows, except for the loss of the thermal protection.
A. I checked the Web sites you mention, but couldn't get much out of them. I am not sure I fully understand your question. If you are looking to improve the thermal efficiency of your existing windows - with which you seem to be satisfied - the best way to do this is with the installation of Magnetite windows inside the existing ones. Magnetite windows are acrylic panels in a magnetized metal frame that are attached to the frames or casing of existing windows by strips that are either screwed or self-adhered onto them. To find the nearest dealer, call (800) 624-8483.
If you are thinking of replacing your windows, I suggest you be wary of any claims or endorsements and products that haven't had enough of a history to be considered well-established and reliable. Remember that any warranty is only as good as the reputation of the firm making it.
I recommend readers stick with proven brands of vinyl windows like Gorell and Kas-Kel, and look into fiberglass windows by a long-established manufacturer like Marvin that has a very good service and warranty record. I recently had the opportunity to compare prices between several top-brand vinyl windows and Ultrex windows by Marvin. The difference in price was negligible.
Q. I am purchasing a house that has considerable mold in it. The house was constructed new in 2006; owners lost their jobs, defaulted and when the heat was turned off, a pipe broke. The building sat closed up for many months, allowing the mold to grow. I plan on removing all the Sheetrock, doors and trim that contain mold. I will remove all the carpet in the house, but plan on leaving the tile and hardwood. There are several rooms that appear to be mold free. My question is, should I be concerned about the rooms and other surfaces that don't show signs of mold? Is there something I can do to clean those rooms in case there are mold spores that are not visible? When I have finished this project, are there professionals that will certify the house to be mold free?
A. This is not something you can afford to treat casually. I once was involved as an expert witness in a similar case, and when I went with the lawyers to inspect the house, our eyes began to itch and water, and our throats became sore in less than an hour. We had to leave the house, and I had to return with a special environmental suit and mask to get in the house to take photos and record the extent of the damages. In another instance, an acquaintance who attempted to remodel an old farmhouse he had just bought became very ill from breathing dust, mold spores and who knows what else. It is not worth your taking a chance on your health. Consider hiring an environmental engineer to assess the extent of the damages and recommend the proper treatment. Hard surfaces like concrete and tiles can usually be cleaned with a strong bleach solution, but porous surfaces such as wood, drywall, carpet, etc., must be removed and disposed of in contractors' plastic bags and taken to a landfill.
Q. I read in your column about nails or screws for squeaky floors. I can't find the article that mentions where to get the screws. Would you be able to help?
A. You are referring to "Squeeeeek No More" screws. They are used to secure any floor, except ceramic or quarry tile, to the floor joists, even through carpeting. You may be able to find these screws in Ace Hardware, Lowe's or Menards stores, but this may be spotty because managers are free to carry what is in demand and what sells in their area. You can order the screws directly from O'Berry Enterprises Inc., 5306 Business Parkway, No. 110, Ringwood, IL 60072, (800) 459-8428. Visit 123itsdone.com, where you can find videos explaining how to proceed. O'Berry Enterprises also makes "Counter-Snap" screws, used for hardwood floors and linoleum only. Both of these screws will leave a very small countersunk hole once their top is broken off. You can then putty the hole with a crayon of the right shade, available in hardware or building-supply stores.
Q. I am a bit old-fashioned when it comes to hardwood flooring and am very hesitant about installing the "new" engineered or laminate flooring. We plan to install some type of flooring on wooden subfloors that were previously carpeted with a large area of the room surrounded by all windows facing west, hence a great deal of sunlight. I am worried about the floor not feeling as solid as nailed flooring and about durability and buckling, etc. It seems this new type of flooring is just snapped together and basically laid on the existing floor without adhesion or nailing. Are my worries justified, or am I just used to old-fashioned oak flooring, its stability and endurance? Also, what particular brands of flooring would you recommend, and what brands should we stay away from and do you have any installation tips you can give me?
A. Engineered flooring is not necessarily snapped together. Some types are nailed - oak strip flooring, for instance. Laminated flooring is installed free-floating and cannot be sanded, as it is a photo impression on a base material. Considering what you call your "old-fashioned" frame of mind, it may be wise for you to stick with oak strip flooring. Buy top-quality oak flooring and have it installed by experienced mechanics. Be sure that it is brought into your house a week ahead of the installation date, and that it is stacked according to the manufacturers' recommendations so it gets a chance to get acclimated to its environment.
Q. I have a question about attic insulation. During the winter we get condensation in the attic; we have cathedral ceilings. I've done some research online and come to the conclusion that we need more insulation. In addition to that, we just had some more soffit vents installed because we were lacking the recommended amount. What do you recommend? We have a 2-inch layer of blown-in insulation right now; it's now 33 years old. Thanks for any advice.
A. This is a loaded question with far too little information for me to give you a definitive answer. Condensation in cathedral ceilings usually manifests itself as stains on finished ceilings, so I assume that is what you see.
Are your ceilings drywalled or made of wood strip boards? Is there a plastic vapor retarder stapled to the bottom of the rafters, just above the finished ceiling? What is the depth of the rafters? If you blow in more cellulose, you are very unlikely to have any space for ventilation, as it will not be possible to do so without filling the rafter cavities.
Do you also have a ridge vent? Without it, soffit vents are not much, if any, help. What is the pitch of the roof and what is it covered with? If you have asphalt shingles, most manufacturers do not warranty their product if there is no ventilation between the roof sheathing and the insulation, but that may not make any difference if your roof is 33 years old. Please give me more details, so I can be more specific about how to overcome your problem - if it is possible to do so at a reasonable cost.
• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.
© 2009, United Feature Syndicate Inc.