Hospitality is served up alongside the sushi at Nagano
As far as suburban sushi is concerned, there are two schools of thought: city spinoffs and family-owned shops that tend to be hit or miss. There is a certain resignation to the fact that you simply won't be blown away by the maki.
Nagano, a Japanese eatery on the edge of Lombard, is not glamour personified, nor does it strive to blow you away. In fact, where some bars have blue neon beer signs, Nagano has a pink one in the shape of a fish, simply declaring "sushi."
Gazing out through the windows, you'd be hard pressed to see or even imagine bonsai trees and clear water streams in the face of a view of Foremost Liquors across the street.
But what you will get is a comfortable strip mall setting that has been around for 12 years, owned and run by a mom, dad and son.
What would otherwise easily qualify for an undistinguished décor warms up when you spot some of the thoughtful details. One is the comically placed Japanese curtains covering the front door. Another is the board of Polaroids of patrons past as you walk down the hallway. Several paper lanterns hang around the sushi bar, behind which the sushi chef works his magic.
Shrimp dumplings look like a good start from the generously populated menu, but they somehow get lost amid the detailed feast that we order, and never get to the table. Instead, we receive a satisfying hot white miso soup.
We find the mixed order of delivery to be out of protocol - as we get our noodles first, followed by the breaded pork, with sushi coming last.
The ton katsu - pork tenderloin pounded almost paper thin and breaded with Panko bread crumbs - is delightfully crunchy, but the crust nearly overwhelms the meat itself. The katsu sauce, however, is a thick, brown and sweet creation (very close to a barbecue sauce) that is presented separately for dipping and becomes greatly complimentary to the meat. It's served with a slaw and a handful of sticky white rice.
Strips of marbled beef with mushrooms, carrots and onions served over ramen noodles in a fragrant, spicy broth comprise the spicy noodle dish. The broth is the star here, imparting most of the flavor.
On the sushi side of things, the spicy crab maki is a standard take filled with crabmeat, cucumber and spicy sauce. What the menu fails to advertise is that the crab is, in fact, crab stick.
A feature on the a la carte menu is the tai roll - a straightforward piece of red snapper over rice. The fish is fresh and firm, needing only a touch of soy sauce to bring out the flavor.
The highlight is the hotate, a scallop roll facing up and piled high with a chilled, diced scallop, spicy mayo sauce and Tobiko caviar for an extra burst. As presented, it's hard to eat in one bite, but don't hesitate to use your fingers.
As always, a great bet, especially in summer, is a chilled dry sake to go with the meal.
Over the years, Nagano - headed by the friendly family trio - has managed to become the go-to sushi spot in Lombard. And that speaks volumes about its culinary competence and hospitality.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
<p class="factboxheadblack">Nagano Japanese Restaurant</p> <p class="News">1005 E Saint Charles Road, Lombard, (630) 629-2469, <a href="http://www.naganosushi.cjb.net" target="new">www.naganosushi.cjb.net</a></p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> Japanese</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting: </b>Relaxed, mostly filled with locals</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday: closed Sunday </p> <p class="News"><b>Price range:</b> Appetizers $3.95 to $12.95: sushi $3.50 to $12.95, entrees $8.95 to $39.50</p>