Don't let summer keep you from crafting delicious art

My first stint as a professional pastry chef found me in a bakery in New York's Catskills. During the busy summer months I would occasionally take off my apron and mingle with the guests. While people drooled over our chocolate croissants, they simply could not resist our fresh fruit tarts.

Fresh eggs and dairy from local farmers and homegrown fruit provided the tools with which our imaginations soared - it felt more like we were creating art than dessert. Pastry cream provided our blank canvas, colorful fruit our paint, and the crispy cookie crust an earthy frame to hold the masterpiece. Slicing our artwork seemed criminal.

My tart designs drew inspiration from nature. My flower petal tart showcased concentric circles of sliced strawberries garnished with fresh mint leaves. Another tart boasted alternating rows of raspberries, blueberries or other berries.

As beautiful as those were, our free-form fruit tarts held the centerpiece position in the tart display. We'd toss an assortment of fruit with a light glaze and fill the shells. An edible flower provided a simple garnish.

As summer's weeks fill up with all manner of activities, few home bakers look to spend too much time in the kitchen. Instead of buying a fruit tart - that while convenient may taste full of preservatives and artificial flavors - perhaps we can create a dessert that offers fresh summer flavors without holding you hostage in the kitchen.

I started by revisiting my pastry chef recipes for fresh fruit tarts. I tossed out the rolled cookie crust shell and time-consuming cream filling, but, of course, I kept the fresh fruit.

Cutting corners does not mean compromising flavor or texture. Cinnamon graham crackers or gingersnap cookies can be turned into an easy tart shell. Skip store-bought crumbs as the small convenience does not warrant a serious lack of flavor. Choose high quality graham crackers or gingersnap cookies.

Unlike pies, where the filling plays the starring role, fillings in tarts are supporting characters, acting like glue between the crust and fresh fruit.

For a quick and easy filling that fits these requirements it's hard to beat cream cheese. We don't want cheesecake, so I sidestepped the oven and created a no-bake filling. I also replaced the sweetened condensed milk called for in many recipes with lemon juice, sugar and heavy whipping cream to create a flavorful base that complements, not overpowers, the fruit.

The trick to creating this creamy filling lies in using very soft cream cheese. You can soften it in the microwave, but planning ahead and allowing the cream cheese to soften at room temperature gives the best results. One important tip: For a firm filling do not use reduced-fat cream cheese.

Visit local farmers markets for the freshest selection of berries, tree fruits and melons and then enjoy summer with a dessert that showcases nature's artistry.

• Annie Overboe, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, lives in Villa Park. Send questions to Baking Secrets, Daily Herald Food section, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or food@dailyherald.com. Questions will not be responded to personally.