Elegant Lal Qila offers vibrant Indian, Pakistani cuisine
Lal Qila, or The Red Fort, is considered one of India's most important cultural monuments. Built entirely of red stone in the 17th century, it was a palace and fortress for the emperor.
It is doubtful the master builder Shahjahan envisioned a 21st century interpretation located in a Palatine strip mall, but the owners of this new Indian and Pakistani restaurant have done well in paying homage by ensuring a vibrant cuisine and a modern, upscale casual interior that has chandeliers hanging from exposed ducts - a rare sight of originality.
It would take a lot to fill the considerable space that is at hand at Lal Qila. Two separate dining rooms attempt to do that, one with regular two- and four-seat glass-top tables for dining, and the other with large round tables accommodating banquets and weddings. Oversized black tiles line the floor, while faux Taj Mahal windows catch the eye mid-level. Surprisingly, the completely out of place musical stylings of Sarah McLachlan welcomed us at the door. This was corrected toward the end of our meal by what sounded like veritable Indian pop.
With dinner served nightly and lunch during the week, plus the added bonus of a Sunday brunch, the restaurant offers ample opportunity for eating at just about any time of the day.
We opted for the lunch buffet - a sure bet to eating more than one's fair share, but also a great way to taste test.
On display was a remarkably vast chunk of the regular dining menu, proportionally immense as well.
We started off with the keema samosa - a by-the-numbers rendition of pan sauteed and mildly spiced ground beef folded into a crisp triangle of deep fried pastry. Another appetizer, the vegetable pakora - consisting of herbed, spiced and deep fried assorted fresh vegetables - was too dry. This is where the handful of chutneys, both sweet and savory, provided apt moisture.
The vegetarian aloo jerr, diced roasted potatoes enveloped in whole cumin seeds, were soft and pungent. This dish made a perfect accompaniment to the sweet and very saucy roasted pepper banana curry, or the karahi gosht - chunks of fresh goat shanks sauteed with tomatoes, herbs and spices and garnished with cilantro, jalapeños, ginger and lemon for a fresh kick.
Other meat dishes included the nihari, tender beef shanks cooked in spices and whole herbs and served with a thick gravy, as well as the haleem, boneless beef shanks with wheat and lentils, blended together and garnished with brown onions, jalapeños, cilantro and lime.
All the sauces were very rich, thick and heavy - easily absorbed by the basmati rice, but nevertheless not for fainthearted dieters.
Several of the desserts will also weigh on the conscience of the easily overwhelmed, like the Indian style cheese balls floating in a milky, sugary syrup, and the carrot halwa, shredded carrots, cooked in butter and sugar syrup. A bite of each more than sufficed. Fresh fruit platters provided a lighter and healthier reprieve.
Service was amiable and discreet. Our server walked us through the buffet offerings and explained each dish, and also provided us with generous offerings of doughy na'an bread without being prompted.
Opened just a short while, Lal Qila already shows promise and competency that, we hope, can carry it over the present economic slump.
Lal Qila
Location: 2371 Hicks Road, Palatine,
Contact: (847) 496-7892, www.lqrestaurant.com
Cuisine: Indian and Pakistani
Setting: Modern interpretation of the classic grandness of the genre
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday lunch buffet; 5 to 10 p.m. daily; 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday brunch
Price range: Appetizers $3 to $6; entrees $8 to $12; dessert $5 to $6; buffet $9.99