How winemakers go about responding to tricky vintages

The expression, "If Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy," is nowhere more true than in wine.

The 2006 and 2007 vintages had all the requirements to ripen grapes - sun, heat and precipitation - but all at the wrong time. Successful producers apply canny winemaking techniques to soothe the effects of a grumpy Mother Nature. Here are some examples.

2007 "No Oak" Chardonnay, A to Z Wine Works (Oregon): The fine wine world focuses on Oregon's Pinot Noir, but just under the radar, Oregon chardonnay developed a style all its own. A to Z exemplifies this style with bright fruit (akin to New World vineyards) accented by the minerality and acidity that chardonnay expresses in its Burgundian homeland. To counteract the effects of a damp spring and stormy harvest, winemakers blend chardonnays from 19 vineyard sites and ferment in stainless steel to promote citrus and tropical fruit notes and wet stone and brioche complexity, unclouded by oak. Serve as a rich cocktail and complement to seafood, especially Pacific Northwest salmon or sturgeon. ($16)

2006 chardonnay, Hanzell Vineyards (California): When blistering summer heat followed severe spring frost, winegrowers at this historic Sonoma Valley estate modified their style to conform to Nature's demands. Barrel-fermenting a larger proportion of fruit brings new warmth to Hanzell's pure fruit and crushed rock style, with impeccable balance promising flavor development for five years. Serve with rich seafood and meats, such as fresh bacon or grilled salmon. ($70)

2007 Chinon "Baronnie de la Madeleine" (France): The Loire Valley consistently offers France's best fine wine values. This family-owned estate has circumvented the vicissitudes of vintage 2007 by blending the finest Cabernet Franc from their finest vineyards, yielding tantalizing aromas of rose and violet, expansive red fruit flavors accented by greener tones of olives and herbs, finishing with elegantly firm tannins. Serve with rich game birds such as duck, red meat accented with herbs and the richest vegetable dishes. ($21)

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.