Discover Torrontes one delicious sip at a time

Not long ago, Torrontes was a mystery wine, a prime candidate for "stump the sommelier" blind tastings.

With a sniff we'd guess "Pinot Blanc?" as the incognito wine offered clean, floral aromas. But no, it's too minerally. With a slurp, we'd vacillate "Italian Pinot Grigio? French Pinot Gris?" from dry-ish flavors of just-ripe stone fruit. But no, there's a grapefruit-y accent, leading another slurp and guess of "un-oaked Sauvignon Blanc?" But no, not enough herbaceousness.

Finally, we'd give up and simply agree, "It's delicious!"

Today, Torrontes (tor-AHN-tez) is no mystery. Argentina's signature white grape has teamed up with Malbec - the country's signature red - to become our fastest growing import category. Labels are inching over $10, but quality and variety outpace price, with flavors ranging from crisp and minerally (see "Ross' Choice") to plump and grapefruit-y (Alamos, about $10), to juicy, spiced ripe peach flavors and honeyed accents (Crios de Susanna Balbo, $15.)

Torrontes makes a unique cocktail and natural partner to Argentine fare, which is heavily influenced by cuisines of Italy and Spain.

Whether at home or at one of the area's Argentine restaurants, Torrontes complements light tapas (crab cakes, sliced ham), sandwiches (including pebete - Argentina's BLT - a soft bun filled with cheese, cured meat, tomato and mayonnaise), light pizza (prepared with musarela, similar to mozzarella) and a bounty of seafood, from Argentina's coastline or our own, such as oysters, shellfish, trout, squid and other seafood prepared in pates, roasts, grills, stews and empanadas.

And when the weather turns really warm, plonck in some ice and dash with soda for a New World wine spritzer.

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.