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Café Roma in Elgin is simple yet satisfying

Café Roma in Elgin satiates through simplicity.

Frank and Jennifer Redisi opened Café Roma in June 2008, banking on Frank's Cordon Bleu skills and the year he spent in Rome. He operates the kitchen with three others while Jennifer works the crowd. Located on Point Boulevard off the intersection of Randall Road and I-90 - and be forewarned it's easy to miss the tiny street sign - Café Roma occupies a clever location for pulling in office workers from the surrounding corporate village.

Chocolate brown furniture and burnt orange light fixtures convey warmth and coziness. On a weekday, the cafe bustles with lunch patrons who fill most of the 75 seats divided between tables and booths. Sounds from the two widescreen TVs intermingle with the crowd's lively chatter to convey conviviality and buzzing activity. Classic rock plays softly in the background.

Mouthwatering Roman-style dishes tagged with value-conscious prices pepper the diminutive yet substantial menu. Italian staples along the lines of robust filetto di pomodoro tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and olive oil predominate the selection of straightforward pastas, sandwiches, salads and pizzas. To retain the al dente quality, the kitchen uses only De Cecco brand pasta from Italy.

Prices tend toward bargain with the $24 filet mignon on the dinner menu the costliest option. Pasta specials of the day linger at a happy $7, and with an accompanying salad are market driven. Pizzas and sandwiches land at about $8, the latter served with a side salad or fries.

Famished from our search for this hard-to-find restaurant, we start with the soup and move slowly uphill.

Meaty best describes the flavor of French onion soup - although it contains neither meat nor cheese. Yet, it tastes as though it's been simmering for hours. In similar fashion, the toothsome cream of tomato soup provides lush notes of repletion. The fact that we have to ask for spoons and napkins makes the experience only a smidgen less enjoyable.

Salads reflect the restaurant's credo of uncomplicated nourishment. A delicate yet full-bodied dressing comes on the Caesar, topped with fresh Parmigiano and croutons. Equally crisp, the della casa with spring greens and romaine hits high notes with the homemade white balsamic vinaigrette.

Entrees reflect the weighty cuisine of Rome and include pasta favorites like linguine shrimp diavolo and spaghetti pomodoro and basil. Pizzas entice with palatable toppings such as artichoke and sweet onion. Chicken Marsala, salmon with lemon cream sauce and a variety of sandwiches resound Italian and American influences.

We opt for the pasta specials of the day: farfalle covered with olive oil and garlic, topped with slabs of freshly grilled chicken, and the penne with flavorsome, slightly piquant arrabbiata sauce and juicy bits of sauteed Italian sausage.

Both arrive promptly at the table in ample (not oversized) portions that we consume down to the last drop. The farfalle provides light yet gratifying support while the penne arrabbiata is a more sensual affair.

Two desserts top off our meal. The sinful chocolate lava cake contains a moist, rich spongecake filled with a liquid fudge center and vanilla gelato. The panna cotta, an eggless custard, proves to be even more divine with Tahitian vanilla beans, blueberry and raspberry coulis.

Throughout our meal, service remains gracious and expeditious, and Jennifer Redisi comes to our table several times to check on us and chat.

We leave feeling happy and full - in that Italian way where you can't wait to go back and eat more.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Cafe Roma

Facts: 2175 Point Blvd., Elgin, (847) 836-7662, tastecaferoma.com

Cuisine: Italian with a Roman emphasis

Setting: Contemporary and casual cafe in the Randall Point Office Park on Point Boulevard near I-90 and Randall Road.

Price range: Appetizers $4 to $9; sandwiches and salads $6 to $10; entrees $7 to $24; desserts $6; wine $6 to $7 by the glass, $22 to $24 by the bottle.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday and Friday (dinner available after 3 p.m.). Closed Saturday and Sunday except for private bookings.

Accepts: Reservations, major credit cards

Also: Full bar; free parking

It's easy to miss Cafe Roma in Elgin, but hearty fare and friendly service make it a nice spot for lunch. Christopher Hankins | Staff Photographer
Penne arrabbiata can be topped with bits of Italian sausage in a piquant sauce at Cafe Roma in Elgin. Christopher Hankins | Staff Photographer
The enticing verdura plate features grilled zucchini, yellow squash, portobella mushrooms, red and yellow pepper and artichoke hearts in a balsamic reduction. Christopher Hankins | Staff Photographer
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