Proof's in brownies in case of hype over special pan

It's easy, I know, to give into the allure of new gadgets. One look at a shiny pan or jazzed-up mixer and we envision a buffet of dazzling desserts coming from our kitchens. Before we know it that new pan has found its way to the checkout.

Culinary school taught me an important lesson about kitchen gear: how to size up those fancy gadgets and pans that promise to save time, money or boost our baking repertoire. Just like chefs in a professional kitchen, home cooks need to be sure what they bring into their kitchens earns its keep.

If you pulled out all the kitchen paraphernalia from your cupboards and lined everything on the counters, you would discover that we tend to use only 20 percent of the items on a regular basis. The remaining 80 percent falls into one of two categories: the seasonal stuff or garage sale junk.

When it comes to baking pans, those with heavy-duty construction, multiple uses and durability claim a permanent home.

I shop at professional kitchen supply stores or Wilton's Darien store for heavy-duty bakeware. Most of the baking pans I use every week have been in service for more than 15 years; some are veterans of professional culinary action.

While I am always on the hunt for interesting recipes and diverse flavors, I seldom purchase new bakeware on a whim. A good friend mentioned a special pan designed to bake the perfect brownie. The catchy name says it all: Baker's Edge Brownie Edge Pan.

Great brownies offer chewy texture somewhere between the soft, lofty heights of cake and the dense gooeyness of fudge, yet few meet our expectations. Brownies should not need frosting for flavor or moistness, nor require chilling to cut.

Advertisements boasted that desirable edge in each bite, so after hearing a few solid endorsements I took the bait; I had to see if the pan could deliver a brownie that baked evenly throughout the pan.

I liked the heavy duty feel and shape of the Brownie Edge Pan. The rectangular pan has interior walls in mazelike pattern that circulates heat evenly throughout the pan. Not only does this maximize edges, but more importantly it creates a brownie without an underbaked center.

I viewed this pan as an opportunity to create a less sweet brownie without losing that signature chewy texture. Slightly reducing the sugar in my standard recipe allowed chocolate's savory flavors to shine through.

The secret to this batter lies in whipping the eggs and sugar until ribbons form. This step creates chewy texture inside the brownie and enhances those desired chewy edges and top crust. Deep cocoa flavors come from using unsweetened chocolate in lieu of cocoa powder.

Much to my surprise, the pan lived up to its claim and produced an exceptionally chewy brownie. If you like brownies, this pan deserves a place in your bakeware collection.

• Annie Overboe, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, lives in Villa Park. Send questions to Baking Secrets, Daily Herald Food section, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or food@dailyherald.com. Questions will not be responded to personally.