Culinary nods keep on coming for Mado's husband-wife team
Serendipity. There's no better way to describe the lifework of Robert and Allison Levitt, husband and wife chef/owners of Mado Restaurant in Chicago's Bucktown neighborhood, whose culinary vision is to create an "anti-trendy restaurant - a comfortable, relaxed little place down the street with really good food."
Robert Levitt, a Wheeling native, met Allison at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. After graduation in 2001, the two moved to Chicago to escape the expense and hectic pace of New York City and established themselves at some of the Windy City's highly acclaimed restaurants including 312 Chicago and North Pond. They also found time along the way to get married.
The Levitts, both passionate about food and service, opened Mado in April 2008, and have received culinary nods for their fresh menu including being named one of America's Top Restaurants for 2009 by Zagat Survey. Additionally, both chefs were nominated for the 2008 Jean Banchet Awards for Culinary Excellence in the "Rising Chef" and "Rising Pastry Chef" categories.
Rob, how did you become interested in cooking? I was a poor musician at the University of Illinois (Urbana-Champaign) who needed to get bills paid. I began working as a prep cook at Timponi's, and I knew that this was what I wanted to do. A friend helped me get a job at Le Titi De Paris in Arlington Heights where I was encouraged to attend culinary school outside of Illinois to get a different experience.
Allison, did you always know that you wanted to be a pastry chef? I always enjoyed baking at home, but I went to school for environmental biology. This was before the "green" movement had taken off and I didn't want to work in a laboratory, so I decided to change directions.
What is the best part about working together professionally and what is the biggest challenge? Allison: The best part is that we get to spend time together. If one of us was doing this without the other, I don't know if the marriage would do very well. The biggest challenge is the same thing - spending a lot of time together in an environment that can be stressful.
Rob, you are known for your house-made salumi, testa and sausages. What's behind your desire to buy whole animals and butcher in house? We came to realize that we want great relationships with farmers. They work hard to raise animals and raise them right. They are not raising them for parts; they are raising the whole animal. We took a look at what people were buying and what they weren't buying like beef hearts and the hind legs of hogs. These items are usually written off as a loss or wind up in a compost heap. We take them and make something delicious out of them. We are developing a reputation to be the place to go for these items. We sell out of beef heart before hanger steak and our salad with crispy fried pig ears sells.
Do you have a favorite ingredient? Rob: We joke that we love all things pig-related. What's most exciting for me is when spring rolls around and farmers start to deliver produce; it's great to see what's available. I look forward to asparagus, ramps and fava beans every year. You learn to watch the seasons and see what's fresh and available. Just when you hit your stride with an ingredient, it goes away. We do a coddled egg with a ragu made from a variety of spring vegetables and topped with toasted almonds. Once spring is over and we can't get the ingredients, there is a backlash.
What culinary trends do you both support? Rob: The farm-to-table movement that is going strong right now - buying from local farms and not just from Sysco. We're at farmer's markets two to three times a week to see what's available. It's nice to see other chefs buying there regularly.
Rick Bayless talks about the importance of doing whatever you can do to buy locally. He said when you eat at a restaurant in New York, you can tell that the cooking represents the region; we need to do the same thing here - establish a Midwest/Chicago cuisine and define ourselves as Chicago chefs.
Allison, your shortbread has developed a cult-like following, but what is your favorite sweet treat? Custardy desserts. I'm a sucker for old-fashioned stuff like crème brulee, crème caramel and chocolate éclairs.
What is the coolest thing about your restaurant? Allison: Our communal table. We do family dinners once a month where we serve a five-course meal centered around an ingredient; we have fun with it.
Rob, do you have any favorite restaurants in your old neighborhood? Portillo's. Whenever we go back, that's where we go for Italian beef. We also like Le Titi De Paris in Arlington Heights; we go there for anniversaries. It's special because we got married there and I worked there.
What are the best things the two of you have learned from your livelihood? Rob: Patience, diplomacy and not to take anything for granted. This business also teaches you how to multitask and tests your managerial skills as you face each new challenge.
Tell us about this recipe. Allie's Rice Pudding. The ingredients are accessible and it's a nice, comforting dessert - it sticks to your ribs.
Enjoy this at home or at Mado, 1647 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, (773) 342-2340, madorestaurant@att.net.
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Rice Pudding
1 cup basmati or jasmine rice
2 quarts whole milk
10 ounces granulated sugar
4 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Combine the rice, milk and sugar in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium. Simmer, stirring frequently, until the rice is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed.
While the rice is cooking, combine the eggs and cream in a medium mixing bowl.
When the rice is ready, add a small amount of the rice mixture into the eggs and cream, whisking continuously, and then add all back into the saucepan. Cook for only 1 or 2 minutes. The mixture should be thickened but don't overcook the eggs.
Pour the finished pudding into a bowl or individual serving dishes, cover with plastic wrap so that it touches the surface of the pudding and chill. Serve with dried or fresh fruit and toasted nuts.
Serves eight.
Rob and Allison Levitt, Mado, Chicago