Wet snow can cause serious roof problems

Q. Our 2-year-old house has a "faux" slate roof. I believe it is a synthetic product made to look like slate, which has the characteristic of being much smoother than ordinary roof shingles. Unfortunately, here in northern Vermont, we experience a good deal of snow.

This brings me to the problem. The snow builds up to about a foot or more deep and then avalanches off the entire roof. This has already caused major damage to our deck. The roof has a 6/12 pitch and is about 28 feet from peak to eaves. We have been advised by the builder to use a product called Snow Guard to hold back the avalanche. I am concerned that this may not have the strength or height to hold the snow or allow the snow to build up even higher before it begins to move, and perhaps do structural damage to the roof. Do you recommend this product or do you have any other suggestions to help us out of being buried in snow? I have followed your column in the Free Press for many years and would appreciate your thoughts on this matter. Thank you for any help you can provide in this matter.

A. Snow guards are very successful at holding snow on a roof, even deep snow. But there are several things to consider besides the type of snow guards to use. Is the roof structurally able to handle the additional and substantial snow load that can result from the snow's inability to slide off? This is a serious consideration, as heavy snow can become even heavier if it begins to rain, as it often does in a January thaw or late-winter precipitations.

As you know, snow can hold a lot of rain, and it can also turn into heavy ice. There is also the consideration that if snow is not allowed to slide off, ice dams may build up and add to the problem, causing leakage inside the house - if the roofer did not install the right amount of an ice and water-guard membrane at the eaves, in the valleys and other roof penetrations. Also to be considered is the ability of the plastic "slate" fasteners and of the "slates" themselves to hold the snow without being torn off. To prevent this, the snow guards need to be installed in such a manner as to be the anchor that protects the "slates" and its fastening system. You have to weigh those risks against the kind of damage the snow does to your deck. You mentioned major damage, but gave no details. If the damage is only to the deck itself, and not to its railing, what could the damage be to make it so serious? A properly sized joist system covered with standard deck boards should not suffer from a heavy load of snow. People have metal roofs installed so the snow can slide right off, so you achieve the same results with your "slate" roof - it may be a blessing.

Q. I have lived in my new home in New Jersey for four years and had a stainless kitchen sink that was so scratched up I had to replace it with a new stainless-steel sink. I am heartbroken because I see scratches on the new sink. I try not to put anything into the sink. Please tell me how I can remove the scratches from my new sink. I am very upset.

A. How deep are the scratches? Are they very light and made from simply placing pans into the sink and juggling them around or are they deeper and caused by some pretty strong action? Your best bet is to find out what kind of stainless-steel sink you bought from the store that sold it to you.

There are several kinds of stainless-steel finishes. If it has one of the polished finishes, the scratches show more and they may be very difficult to remove. On the other hand, a stainless sink with a brushed finish - although it will show light scratches - will, in time, look better as they blend in. The kitchen department of the store from which you bought the sink should not only be able to tell you what you have, but also suggest a way to deal with the scratches.

Q. I hope you can help me. I want to know if there is something that will take paint off clothing. I have tried a few things, and they didn't work. Thank you.

A. You have given me very little information. What type of clothing, what material is it made of? What type of paint, latex, alkyd or organic oil? Take the affected article of clothing to a dry cleaner; they should be able to tell you if the paint can be safely removed.

Q. I have a one-car garage that I would like to heat so I can store merchandise. The walls, ceiling and garage door are insulated. All I need is a heat source. Which portable electric heat source do you recommend? Which is the safest? I have seen several different quartz and electric models advertised, including the Eden-Pure Gen3 Model 1000 and the Amish Heat Surge miracle heater. Any suggestions?

A. The heavily advertised heaters you mention are still electric heaters, and you are paying a high price for a heater that you can buy for a lot less in a hardware store. However, your best bet would be to have an electrician install a Modine wall-hung electric heater. Their Hot Dawg Garage Heater is specially designed for garages, and it will be far more effective and safe than any floor model you can get and will leave your floor space free. Any licensed electrician can get it and install it for you.

Q. About two years ago, I had a new driveway installed. I have had varying opinions on whether or not it should be sealed. Could you tell me what is the proper thing to do? What is the advantage either way, and what product to use?

A. It is a good idea to seal asphalt driveways after they have settled for two or more years and turned gray - when the oils have evaporated, but not before. In shady spots, it may take longer than two or three years. The best products to use are coal-tar pitch emulsions, asphalt-based emulsions or acrylic sealers, in the order of increased preference. Stay away from cutback asphalt known as Gilsonite. Sealed driveways should not be recoated too often; it is best to wait until they look like they need it.

Q. I was hoping that you might be able to respond to this in your weekly column. I am a big fan and regular reader. My house is 5 years old and I am interested in tiling the kitchen and eat-in area with large (12-inch or bigger) ceramic tiles. However, I noticed some floor and joist movement when people walk in this area. I am concerned that the large tiles will pop up due to the flex. The floor itself is plywood (exact thickness unknown) on top of engineered (Silent Floor brand) wooden I-joists. The span between support walls is 18.5 feet, the joist depth is 14 inches, and the joist spacing is 19 to 19.5 inches on center. There is no bridging or blocking. Although the basement below is unfinished,

I would prefer not to install an extra beam and lolly columns at the midpoint of the span to stiffen the floor. Do you have any alternative suggestions? Would adding plywood to each side of the "I" joists be effective? This would create a boxed in joist with three vertical support walls, instead of one. I would think if I staggered the ends of the plywood, the joists would be significantly stronger. I have fairly good access to the joists and could glue and screw the plywood. Would bridging or blocking be effective? I'd be interested in hearing your opinions and options.

A. Here's what my structural engineer friend says with some additional information to help you carry out the repair: "The main problem is a lack of bridging. The depth of the joists is appropriate for the span, but the spacing seems odd (it must be 19.2 inches, which is one-fifth of 96 inches) since 48-inch plywood would have to be cut to accommodate it. In any case, for this span and the given spacing of joists, two lines of bridging will greatly increase the stiffness of the floor and prevent tiles from cracking. I would suggest the bridging be either solid plywood diaphragms 5/8 inch thick and solidly blocked in place with screws and glue or steel cross diagonals (Simpson Strong Tie)."

If you opt for the plywood diaphragms, cut them to tightly fit the shape of the I-joists (notches top and bottom), screw and glue 1-inch by 2-inch wood grounds to the web of the I-joist, and apply construction adhesive to the space where the plywood will be placed. Drive the plywood diaphragms against the grounds and screw them top and bottom to the I-joist rails in the center to the web. Screw and glue another set of grounds to the other side of the plywood. This should make the floor rigid enough for tiling.

Q. How do I remove moss from my roof shingles? Thank you for any advice.

A. One method is to spray the affected areas with a solution made of three parts white vinegar and on part water. If possible, do so from a ladder and not by walking on the roof, which is always risky and can void any warranty you may have left on your roof. It will take time for you to see results. The moss should wilt over several weeks, and it should eventually fall off during heavy rains. For long-term protection, you can install zinc strips just below the ridge cap of the roof. Shingle Shield strips are nailed underneath the top course of shingles. If you are queasy about nailing through your roof, you can choose Stainhandler, which is installed with an adhesive.

Q. Sometime ago you mentioned a lifetime water heater - Marathon, I think - but I can't find a Web site for it. Do you have one? It looks like we may be in the market for a new one. Many thanks for your help.

A. The Web site is www.marathonheaters.com. These plastic tanks are sold or rented by some electric utilities. I have had mine for years, and it is performing beautifully.

Q. I have a vent about 6 feet from my furnace. Several feet from the vent I have a smoke detector. The smoke detector will give a short beep when the furnace first turns on after being idle for a while. It is not a continual beep - a short one that stops and does not repeat. My furnace is fairly new and is running properly. I had it checked. The detector is working properly and has a new battery. When the furnace is running I hold the smoke detector to the vent and there is no beep. Any ideas as to how I should proceed?

A. Since the smoke detector is not hard-wired, and it is possible to move it, install it farther from the vent. Another option is to install a deflector on the vent and see if it solves your problem.

Q. I have knotty pine tongue-and-groove wood that is over 50 years old that is installed vertically and has been varnished and darkened. The area is very dark.

I wish to lighten and brighten this area. Since a large fieldstone fireplace is one wall of the entry, it would be difficult to redo this wood fitted around the stone and also difficult to remove the wood and have a new product built around the stone. I thought about Sheetrock over the wood, but casings around doors will not allow enough space for that. Is there a process to prepare this wood with large cracks between pieces and have either paint or paper applied that would look good and keep it in place without peeling off? Are there some applications of paint that would provide a textured look that could work? Or would a papering application be better? This is a log home with a country feel. I'm attempting to bring about a brighter appearance and keep a cozy look. Thanks.

A. Considering the large cracks and the varnish finish, the safest solution would be to apply as light a color plywood paneling as appeals to you.

This paneling is very thin and might work around the door casing. Any competent carpenter or handy person should be able to scribe the paneling to fit the rough lines of the stones. Other options that will not solve the cracks between boards are: 1) sanding the varnish enough to remove any sheen left after all these years and applying several coats of a light stain; 2) coating the paneling with B-I-N and painting it with your choice of light color latex paint; 3) hanging heavy liner paper horizontally over the paneling, followed by hanging a wallpaper of your choice vertically over the liner. The liner should bridge the cracks if they are not too wide.

Q. We have a sunroom that has 3-inch white polystyrene aluminum-clad roof/ceiling panels. This 20-year-old roof now leaks from the seams at the downward end of the roof pitch. The leaks only occur when snow is melting. Is there a sealant available that I could brush on or apply over the roof seams, possibly some type of white flexible tar to seal those seams? Any suggestions to solve our leak problem? Thanks so much for your help.

A. The best sealant I can suggest is Sikaflex-1a - a caulk, adhesive, sealant with excellent flexibility and adherence to clean surfaces. It comes in white. You can purchase it from any of the A.H. Harris building supply stores; there are several in New Jersey, www.ahharris.com.

Q. We have installed a sprinkler system and well to use for lawn watering only. Every year, our patio turns black. When the house is power-washed, the patio is cleaned as well, and it looks great. However, as the months go by, it turns black again. Could the well water be causing this and, if so, what can be done to prevent it? Can something be applied to the concrete to prevent staining? Thank you for any information you can provide.

A. The well water is definitely the culprit. The staining can be from iron or manganese in the water, but it is interesting that it can be cleaned by power-washing, as these chemicals penetrate deeply into the pores of the concrete and are almost impossible to remove, unless the concrete has been sealed and is resealed regularly. Another possibility is tannin staining from decomposing vegetation that could get into your well if it is shallow. Tannin stains would easily be removed by power-washing. To find out which of these is causing the problem, have the water tested by a water specialist who will offer suggestions for solving it. You may also want to consider sealing the concrete after a thorough cleaning every couple of years. Your local hardware or building-supply store can sell you the right product.

Q. I have a one-story aluminum-sided house. One side gets mildew on the siding. I have scrubbed it off, but it comes back in a matter of months. Is there a product I could put on it after I scrub the mildew off?

A. Unfortunately not that I know of. If you scrub the siding with a strong solution made of equal parts fresh Clorox bleach and water, and do not rinse it off, it should be protected until rain washes it off.

Q. We have an unusual problem that we have never faced before. About six weeks ago, we noticed small moth-like bugs flying around our rooms. We can be sitting watching television, and a small moth-like bug will fly by. If we miss killing it, the bug will disappear suddenly.

This happens several times during the day and the evening. The local hardware store people stated that they are drain moths and will disappear when very cold weather freezes the piping around the house. They advised us to pour Clorox bleach down all of our drains, to no avail; they are still there. Can you give me any solution to this irritating problem? A sample moth is enclosed for your identification.

A. The moth did not survive the trip through the mail meters of our faithful USPS, sorry to say. Even if it had, I am not the one to identify its type, as I am no more an entomologist than your hardware-store personnel and do not have their imagination - piping around the house is usually installed to not freeze, so I don't know where they came out with that story.

Catch another moth and take it to a local pest-management professional or send it to the entomology department of the extension service of your state university. Place the moth in a small plastic container similar to a film canister, so it won't get annihilated like the one you sent me.

• Henri de Marne's column appears Sundays. He was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.

© 2009, United Feature Syndicate Inc.