Replacement parts available to fix bathroom drain

Q. I have a bathtub with a spring-loaded pop-up drain that isn't working, and I can't get the drain out of the tub. Does it screw in or pull out? Is it possible to just replace the rubber gasket, as it seals better if I can get the gasket to stay in place?

A. Spring-loaded pop-up drains screw in. They are quite inexpensive, so it's not worth trying to find the right gasket to fit what you have.

Q. You mentioned a nonsilicone caulking for use in the bathroom that would not mold. Can you provide that again? I believe it was a DAP product.

A. It is DAP Kwik Seal Plus Premium Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk w/Microban. You may wish to check the DAP Web site at www.dap.com. Click on "Products," "Caulks and Sealants," "Kitchen/Bath." You will see several choices. The advantage of the caulks with Microban is that they contain a mildew-resistant ingredient.

Q. I had wall-to-wall carpeting removed to expose my beautiful wood floors. There is a door leading to the deck in the dining room. About one-half inch of the floor in front of, and to the side of, this door has turned black from water leakage (under the rug and unseen until now). I do not want to refinish the floors, but I would like advice as to how to rid the floor of this black. Or should I just polyurethane this small section? Part of this section of floor will be under the shoe molding which I am having replaced.

A. You may be able to get rid of most, if not all, of the black discoloration. Buy a small amount of oxalic acid crystals in a paint, hardware or janitorial-supply store. Dissolve it to saturation in warm water, until a few crystals can no longer be absorbed. Remove any finish on the hardwood floor by sanding it. Apply the oxalic-acid solution to the stain with a small nylon brush and cover the treated area with plastic wrap to retard evaporation. Repeat several times as needed. When you have removed most or all of the stain, wipe the treated area with a clean, white rag that's dampened in white vinegar to remove any crystals remaining on the surface. Let dry and apply the finish of your choice. Be very careful handling oxalic acid, as it is a very potent chemical; wear appropriate clothing and eye and skin protection, and dispose of any remaining solution ecologically. Ask your local environmental jurisdiction for their suggestions or take it to your local hazmat depot.

Q. Following your recommendation, I caulked my tub with Sikaflex-1a. I was very pleased with the results, but after a few months, it has turned a yellowish color that I cannot get rid of. I am planning to remove the caulk and try again, but is it likely to turn yellow again? If so, I will need to use a different product. Do you know why it became discolored?

A. Sikaflex-1a is an excellent product that I have recommended for years to caulk the joint between a tub and the wall above. However, it needs to be allowed to cure thoroughly before being subjected to wetness, which takes at least a week. It may not be practical for most people, unless you have another bathroom you can use while it cures. Another product I have used with success that does not need more than two to three days to cure is DAP Kwik Seal Plus Premium Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk w/Microban.

Q. You have repeatedly mentioned "externally baffled ridge vents." My roof's ridge vent is the type that has roofing shingles nailed over what looks like a large Scotch-Brite pad. Is it the right kind? On a side note, last year I noticed that a local insurance company ran ads on television that said we all should shovel our roofs after every snowstorm. That sounds crazy!

A. Your ridge vent sounds like a roll-on type or one that comes in strips but does not have an external baffle. The Scotch-Brite-like pad is there to keep bugs out and to stop weather infiltration, but it gets clogged up with snow and stops working until the snow melts. It also does not function as intended when the wind blows. That is why I recommend externally baffled ridge vents, as the external baffle deflects wind-driven snow and rain over the vent and encourages ventilation. I haven't seen the TV ad, but if it advises homeowners to remove snow off their roof after every storm, you are right.

It is irresponsible to recommend that we get on our roofs to remove the snow after any significant snowfall. Not only is it dangerous, but it often causes serious damage to the roof covering, requiring repairs or early replacement. If a roof is not engineered to withstand the snow loads in any given area, snow removal should be done by experienced people. Check that they are properly insured against accidents and damage.

Q. We have a 3,200-square-foot chalet. Ice dams continually form on the roof in the back of the house, which is on the east side. What kind of cable is appropriate? I purchased a Model RC80 by Frost King. The owner's manual indicates that special consideration and professional installation are required for a metal roof. A toll-free number was listed to call for more information about installing this particular cable on a metal roof. I called that number and was given another model number from another company: Easy Heat (the company) and PSR (the model). I was told to call Northeast Marketing (800) 289-0012 and was given the name of a local electrical supply store. After explaining my needs to an employee there, I was given the company name, Delta-Therm, and was given prices for the required items, which total $540 - about three times more expensive than the Frost King. Can I use the Frost King cable on a metal roof? If not, do you have any suggestions?

A. Since Frost King's instructions state that using their cable on a metal roof requires special consideration and professional installation, you should consult a licensed electrician to have it installed. I haven't been able to get a contact number for Frost King to ask for details. Why doesn't the snow slide off your metal roof? Is it rusting? Does it have any obstruction to the fall of the snow? Or is the roof too flat for the snow to slide off? But the most permanent solution is to address the cause of the ice damming - usually insufficient insulation and ventilation.

This can be done in one of several ways:

• If there is a full attic, add insulation to it whether or not there is ventilation. If you can improve the ventilation, do so.

• If you have a cathedral ceiling, the existing fibrous insulation can be removed and be replaced with closed-cell polyurethane by experienced contractors.

• If the finished ceiling is not of significant value, tack 2-inch-thick rigid insulation to it and screw new ceiling drywall or paneling through the insulation into the rafters.

• Have a cold roof installed - not too practical if your metal roof is in good condition and does not need replacement.

Q. I noticed that you suggest cardboard baffles for rafter vents. I agree the foam ones are unsatisfactory. I called around and no one carries the cardboard baffles. One contractor used to carry them, but said they deteriorated, probably due to moisture, over time. I was able to find two vendors for the cardboard baffles online. Searching the Internet, I found a relatively new rafter vent called AccuVent. Google "AccuVent;" they look promising. Could you please take a look and let me know what you think? I'm retrofitting vents on a 4/12 pitch roof with insulation in place.

A. The cardboard baffles I used when I was actively involved in building and remodeling homes were waxed and held out very well. In fact, those in my attic are 29 years old and have not deteriorated. The AccuVent baffles I have found on the Internet sound good. But I haven't used them, so I can't vouch for the ease of installation. They do block wind from reaching insulation at the eaves, which is what you want.

Q. We had 27 replacement windows installed by Bristol 10 years ago. Last winter the inside glass cracked on one window-bottom panel. I'm unable to get in touch with Bristol. Can you help?

A. I am not sure the Bristol windows I found are the ones you had installed, but when I check out their Web site, bristolwindows.com, I got Winchester Industries Inc. as the manufacturer. Click on the "Contact Us" button and enter your query, as no phone number or address is mentioned.

Q. I am researching replacement patio doors and sliding windows. As a long time reader of your column, I am pro Andersen and Marvin. I also recall you naming a very high-efficiency window manufacturer. Unfortunately, I am unable to find the column in my collection of articles. Could you send me the name? Or are there other more commonly known manufacturers with a good warranty for doors/windows?

A. If you are looking for wood, vinyl-clad or fiberglass windows, Andersen and Marvin are great choices. But if you want to investigate vinyl replacement doors and windows to save money, two good companies to check are Soft-Lite (softlitewindows.com) and Kas-Kel (kassonkeller.com), two manufacturers of quality vinyl windows and doors with several choices of color and glazing options. Soft-Lite has one of the best U-values in the industry with their triple-glazed models. If price is an important consideration, Kas-Kel by Kasson & Keller is less expensive than Soft-Lite.

Q. I have a green moss that has developed on a portion of the bottom edges of my shingles and, of course, is staining the remainder of the lower shingles from water runoff. The side this is occurring on is facing north and gets little to no sun (because of some tall oak trees in my front yard). My house was newly constructed 10 years ago with what I believe to be 25-year shingles. I have read that copper or some sort of zinc stripping placed at the peaks will alleviate any type of fungus growth. Is this known to be true? Can you suggest a remedy short of 10-year-old shingle replacement?

A. Copper and zinc strips are effective in preventing the growth of algae, moss and lichen on several types of roofs (asphalt, fiberglass, wood, tiles, etc.) They do not remove existing growth very well, which may take a very long time. However, you can remove existing growth by spraying the roof with Roof Deck Cleaner, which can be ordered from Shingle Shield. They also sells zinc strips. Their Web site is shingleshield.com. ZincShield (zincshield.com) is another choice. Call (800) 440-3010. They also sell LiquidZinc for treatment of existing growth. Once the roof is cleaned of these growths, any zinc strips applied should prevent further growth if you follow the instructions carefully.

• Henri de Marne's column appears Sundays. He was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.

© 2008, United Feature Syndicate Inc.