Worried about the recession? Try Dublin
As might be imagined, fun things, like travel, are the first to be dropped when recession creeps in, or as in the present case, drops in like a collapsed ceiling.
Looking at the positive side, however, we see gas prices that bring smiles, and insofar as travel for pleasure is concerned, a strengthening U.S. dollar against the high and mighty euro, picking up more than 20 cents since this past July. And when you sift through the morass, you can find travel bargains that are getting too good to turn down, like $493 round trip on expedia.com from Chicago to Dublin in January.
Ireland, just like the U.S., went through a credit flux this past year, from carefree happy times to suicidal. But, considering Ireland as a destination for 2009, those of you who have kept your money in your mattress should start packing because it doesn't get a lot better than this.
Dublin would be a choice destination this winter for seniors for a couple of good reasons, in my opinion. My last visit to Ireland (April 2007) was met by a bewildering progress, considering that Ireland used to be quaint, beautiful and charmingly backward. This time, Dublin was congested with new prosperity, including traffic-snarling construction of highways and high rises around the city's fringes.
Driving a rental car for this old coot was torturous, particularly in the Irish countryside where the roads were built for sheep and donkeys.
But Dublin free of tourists would be a delight. The city is small and navigable, with wondrous attractions ranging from the gigantic Guinness operation to the back-street, old-fashioned production of Jameson Whiskey. Of loftier claim are Dublin Castle and the Dublin Writers' Museum at the top of O'Connell Street, the major north-south thoroughfare.
Though Dublin is a walkable city, with attractions within easy reach of one another, I would encourage visitors to take the sightseers "hop on, hop off" Dublin Bus Tour. But first, purchase a Dublin Pass which carries free admissions to most of more than 25 attractions. Passes are good for either one day, two days, three days or six, with prices for adults at $43, $68, $82 and $89 respectively, based on the current exchange rate of 31, 49, 59 and 89 euros.
You can easily cover the bulk of the city's most famous tourist spots in three days, which makes the three-day Freedom Ticket for the bus transport good sense. The adult cost for the bus rides is $33. If the cost of the Dublin Pass bothers you, consider that without it, you would pay $20 to get into the Guinness Storehouse, $10 for the Dublin Writers Museum and $7 for Christ Church. Free admission to just a half-dozen attractions more than pays for the cost of the pass.
Other advantages of the Dublin Pass, besides both free and discounted tickets, are no waiting in lines for admission and therefore considerable savings of time, plus bus transfers to and from the Dublin International Airport. The pass also comes with a comprehensive guide book. You can order online at dublinpass.ie.
Here are some of the sites that I would consider must-visits:
Two ancient cathedrals with breathtaking architectural beauty are within a few blocks of each other - Christ Church and St. Patrick's. Christ Church was begun in the 11th Century, best reflected by its medieval crypt, manuscripts, and treasures of gold and silverware. St. Patrick's is newer by about 100 years. Jonathan Swift was its dean from 1713 to 1747. In both churches you are likely to catch either a choral concert or rehearsal, musical traditions kept alive since the earliest history of both places.
Dublin Castle is a vast complex, and with its location on a slight hill, looks down on its surroundings, something which the Irish insist symbolizes the English dominance of days gone by. The Vikings who conquered Ireland used a small lake on the site (Black Pool or "Dubh Linn") to moor their ships. Thus the city's name.
The Guinness Storehouse, Dublin's answer to a skyscraper, is perhaps the most popular attraction for tourists, but it is a modern building which focuses more on its three bars rather than the 250 years of its brewing history.
I personally found the Old Jameson Distillery more time-honored, atmospheric and fun. At tour's end you are rewarded with a Jameson signature drink. A few fortunate volunteers are selected to take part in a whiskey comparison and earn a Whiskey Taster Certificate.
Kilmainham Gaol was opened in 1796 but remembered foremost for the executions of Irish rebels just prior to its closing in 1924. Parts of it are dreary and forbidding, but certainly reflective of "The Troubles" of Ireland's long-running struggle for independence.
The National Gallery of Ireland has more than 2,500 paintings in its collection, including works by Fra Angelico, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Titian, Goya, Gainsborough and Reynolds.
Eight miles south of the city is the James Joyce Museum, housed in one of the Martello towers, a fortification built to withstand an invasion by Napoleon. This particular tower was the opening setting for Joyce's novel, Ulysses.
The famous Abbey Theatre is featuring J.M. Synge's The Playboy of the Western World until the end of January. The world premiere of a new play, Marble, by Marina Carr, will be performed Feb. 17 though March 14.
Other places to visit, which you can do without a Dublin Pass, are St. Stephen's Green, Trinity College and the Temple Bar. The latter is a collection of colorful shops, pubs and restaurants on the River Liffey which runs through town.
John Hilferty's column formature travelers appearsmonthly. He can be reached athilf@johnhilferty.com.