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Madison art museum spans the globe and the ages

As the saying goes, the best things in life are free. One thing to add to that list is the Chazen Museum of Art in Madison, Wis., a world-class art museum nestled in the heart of the University of Wisconsin's main campus. Home to the state's second-largest art collection and totaling 18,000 pieces, the Chazen spans nearly every continent and time period with work from ancient Egypt to the modern Midwest.

Just over two hours from the Northwest suburbs, the museum is well worth the drive up I-90. When you get there, park across the street in the heated underground ramp at University Square, a new multiuse residential and business complex.

After you enter the museum from University Avenue, head up the stairs and hang your coats on the free coat rack to your left - you're going to want to get comfortable and stay awhile. A few large-scale pieces adorn the museum lobby, including a painting by UW art professor T.L. Solien.

In the gallery to your right, Phyllis Galembo's "West African Masquerade" photographs will open your eyes to the incredible masquerade rituals of Nigeria, Burkina Faso and Benin. Each photo features one or a few masqueraders in full costume, often comprised of a wooden mask and outfits made from grass, sticks, fabric and other natural or inexpensive materials. Each costume is unique and intricately detailed, rendering the wearer virtually unrecognizable. Worn for community gatherings, such as weddings, funerals and holidays, the masquerade is an important part of West African culture. This stunning exhibit is open through Feb. 1.

A related and equally mesmerizing exhibit is on the second floor, titled "Mami Wata: Arts for Water Spirits in Africa and Its Diasporas." Closing in just a few days on Jan. 11, this huge collection pays homage to African water deity Mami Wata, pidgin English (an invented language used for trading) for "Mother Water." Many masquerades honor this mysterious goddess, who is described as beautiful and seductive, protective yet dangerous.

Depending on the culture, Mami Wata is depicted as a mermaid, a snake charmer or some other water serpent. The exhibition houses hundreds of paintings, sculptures, video documentaries, costumes and even religious altars celebrating her from places including Brazil, central and West Africa, the Caribbean and the United States. Although Mami Wata is worshiped in most of the artwork, some Christians and Muslims began demonizing her in the 1970s as immoral and satanic, and created a few paintings of their own telling this side of the story. Take your time exploring this fascinating exhibit, and pick up the book in the Museum Shop for your coffee table if you feel so inclined ($25).

The rest of the second floor is a tour through time, starting with ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome and ending with more recent American portraits and landscapes. Various urns, coins and other artifacts from the B.C. days are on display, including an actual Roman sarcophagus. Next on the journey is European art from the 1300s to 1700s, most of which is Christian in nature. Asian religions, notably Buddhism, are also represented on this floor.

If historical art isn't your bag, head upstairs to the third floor for some modern masterpieces. Artists represented here include iconic painter Mark Rothko, retired UW professor and founder of the Studio Glass movement Harvey Littleton, and famous American photorealist Tom Blackwell. The museum apparently lacks any work by UW's most famous art alum, glass artist Dale Chihuly (who studied under Littleton), but one of his pieces can be seen at the Kohl Center down the street.

<p class="factboxheadblack">Chazen Museum of Art</p> <p class="News">800 University Ave., Madison, Wis.</p> <p class="News">(608) 263-2246</p> <p class="News"><a href="http://www.chazen.wisc.edu" target="new">chazen.wisc.edu</a></p> <p class="News"><b>Hours: </b>Tuesday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Monday.</p> <p class="News"><b>Admission:</b> Free</p> <p class="BriefHead">While you're there</p> <p class="breakhead">Where to eat</p> <p class="News">Dotty Dumplings Dowry, 317 N. Frances St., (608) 259-0000, <a href="http://www.dottydumplingsdowry.com" target="new">dottydumplingsdowry.com</a>: Consistently voted the best burgers in town, this cozy restaurant and bar is a great place to warm up from the cold and catch up with friends. Specialty burgers include the caesar, California, buffalo and even ostrich, all under $7. Wash your choice down with a local beer from New Glarus, the Ale Asylum or Capitol Brewery. </p> <p class="News">Porta Bella, 425 N. Frances St., (608) 256-3186, <a href="http://www.portabellarestaurant.biz" target="new">portabellarestaurant.biz</a>: For a classier atmosphere, opt for this 40-year-old Italian restaurant, often voted best Italian and most romantic in local polls. The Porta salad - topped with ham, salami, cheese, green peppers and garbanzo beans - and the Garibaldi sandwich - mounds of ham, salami, spicy cheese, tomatoes and peppers on a 10-inch hoagie - are the restaurant's signatures. </p> <p class="breakhead">Things to see</p> <p class="News">Pitaya, 341 E. Campus Mall, (608) 237-2880, <a href="http://www.pitayaonline.com" target="new">pitayaonline.com</a>: This small clothing-store chain, located mostly in college towns, recently opened its newest location in Madison's new University Square complex. The store sells trendy and affordable women's clothing, shoes and accessories.</p> <p class="News">Kohl Center, 601 W. Dayton St., (608) 263-5645, <a href="http://www.uwbadgers.com" target="new">uwbadgers.com</a>: Home to the Wisconsin Badgers basketball and hockey teams, this state-of-the-art arena is worth checking out even when the teams are on the road. Buy some Badger gear, check out the display cases and be sure to look toward the ceiling to see Dale Chihuly's beautiful glass sculpture.</p>