Value-priced wines from France do exist
In the depths of our Chicago winter, you may find yourself dreaming of a sun-washed cafe in the south of France, the warm Mediterranean breeze mingling scents of the sea with kitchen aromas of grilling sausages, onion tarts and cassoulet - the region's fabled bean-and-meat stew, prepared with the cafe proprietor's family recipe, bien sur. As you peruse the menu - no hurry, no worries - the garçon pours your vin rouge, blanc or rose from a carafe. You sip and savor. You think, "Why can't we have delicious and affordable wine like this back home?"
BAM! Back to cold reality, where, even if budget permits overseas travel, it will be months before the Cote d'Azur warms to outdoor dining.
But you can bring your daydream's "delicious and affordable wine" part to life with a wine from Languedoc.
Languedoc (LANG-gwuh-DOCK) is to French wine what Idaho is to potatoes. With 100,000 acres of grapes sparkling in Mediterranean sunshine from the Rhone River to the Pyrenees Mountains, Languedoc is France's largest wine producer, accounting for 40 percent of wine sales in restaurants and supermarkets.
Plenty of Languedoc wines arrive in the U.S., but you may have missed them.
At extra-value prices, shops generally stock bottles on humble bottom shelves. The wines also are found in the Frenchiest of French café's but are generally served unidentified as white, red or rose (as they are in France).
Few labels bear grape names to catch the American eye. Even if they did, few shoppers would choose Languedoc's staple (and legally permitted) varieties - Carignan and Cinsault, Clairette and Picpoul - over international grapes such as Cabernet and Chardonnay.
Rather than grapes, most wines are named for one of Languedoc's 15 sub-regions - themselves the subject of many happy hours of wine geek trivial pursuit. (Most of us can name Corbieres, Limoux and Minervois, but the cork dork who summons up Cabardes, Malepere and St. Chinian receives unending respect.)
But wine is more than grapes and vineyards; a good part of wine's identity is about human culture, and a few twists of fate are bringing Languedoc's wine to America's attention:
Wine consumption is plummeting within France, as family dinners and hourlong lunches become part of the past.
Wine consumption is growing within the U.S., as we rediscover the simple pleasures of dining.
As more Americans drink more wine, we become more willing to experiment with new selections for our nightly quaff.
The economy.
As we hold on to our dollars, the French - the people who convinced America to eat snails and pay for water - have amped up their marketing efforts to bring France's best-value wines to your kitchen table. Some of my favorites are:
Picpoul de Pinet, Hugues Beaulieu - A unique Pinot Grigio alternative with limey zing and delicate minerality for cocktails and to complement mollusks, shellfish and the lightest dishes (about $10).
Minervois "Cuvee Speciale," Chateau Paraza - This red blend including Syrah and Carignan offers up a rich mouthful of juicy red fruits with smoky accents and plush finish (about $10).
Coteaux de Languedoc Rose, Domaine Nizas - Think of this as an extremely light red with minerally, dry flavors softened by berry accents and a finish firm enough to complement charcuterie and light red meats (about $16).
Les Jamelles - A staple in shops and restaurants, this simple "Vins de Pays d'Oc" designation allows labeling with grapes including Chardonnay and Syrah. My favorite is the Pinot Noir with classic cherry and beetroot flavors underscored by a soft finish (about $12).
Blanquette de Limoux, St. Hilaire - This sparkler tickles the palate with white peach and yellow apple flavors for easy-drinking, whether for a "Champagne" cocktail or served on its own with omelets and other light fare (about $12).
Languedoc wines generally are imported by small companies lacking massive distribution budgets. Rely on your wine merchant for recommendations and don't expect to find every label in every store because that really would be a dream.
• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.
Ross' choice
Minervois
2006
Domaine Tour Boissee
Minervois, France
• Suggested retail and availability: About $10 at Binny's and other wine and liquor shops (distributed and imported by Wine Adventures, Iowa)
I'm not certain what Minervois' gout de terroir (regional taste) is, but it's good. This medium-bodied red has just-ripe berry flavors generously accented by black pepper, with sinewy texture and astringent tannin to sop up the richness of sausages and hearty stews. At this price, you can afford a cup for the pot and a cup for the cook.