Family-owned Mandile's dishes up a hearty taste of Southern Italy
On a chilly Wednesday evening this fall, I discovered an Italian restaurant in Algonquin that doesn't skimp on the portions or romantic décor.
Both Carmine and Maria Mandile emigrated from Calabria to Chicago as children and later met and married, opening their business in 1999. Together with help from their four children, they run the restaurant and banquet facility located on Lake-Cook Road, not far from the Fox River. Chef Rob Muster, a recent graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, runs the kitchen. Carmine and Maria frequent the homeland several times a year, bringing back recipe ideas.
Splashy aptly describes the ambiance, an overdone version of Italy recreated through various Roman accouterments such as busts and columns, and a semicircular white garden wall accented by Romanesque "windows." White tablecloths, burgundy curtains and a dizzying display of twinkling white lights convey a heady mix of class and kitsch. Two tuned-in waiters dressed in black flank our table, reflecting the restaurant's no-nonsense attitude.
The thick menu book contains a preponderance of meats and cheeses, olive oil, vegetables and tomatoes, reflecting the bold flavors of Southern Italy. Hearty sauces like marinara and Marsala, olive oil and garlic reign over the appetizers, pastas and entrees.
Big spenders can dig into the $26.95 fileto spinaci, an 8-to-10-ounce filet mignon. The price conscious can opt for the 7-inch, white brick-oven cooked pizzas, which fall under $15. But like most Italian family-style restaurants, the real deal comes in the heaping plates of pasta, served with a choice of soup or salad.
The restaurant offers a dozen appetizers, making a choice difficult. We opted for the melanzane Angelina (named after one of the daughters) to get the party started. Delicate sauteed eggplant folded over a ricotta cheese mixture topped with marinara and mozzarella makes for melt-in-your-mouth bites.
Grilled portabella mushrooms stuffed with prosciutto, spinach and pine nuts turn out to be no less fresh and appetizing.
The large salads resonate creativity. The insalate di Mandile - a mélange of greens olives, fontinella cheese and roasted red peppers - hits a refreshing note. The insalate Fresca contains thick slabs of mouthwatering tomatoes and fresh mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil and basil.
Entrees include a diverse array of pastas, as well as a full gamut of fish, meats, veal, chicken and vegetable dishes.
The spinach gnocchi covered in creamy Alfredo sauce and layered with chicken delivered cozy comfort on a cold night. The homemade potato dumplings take their airy light composition from being cut long, and rolled in a basket instead of two hands, a secret Maria Mandile "borrowed" from some nuns she came across in Sanremo.
My companion opted for the penne di pollo - a hearty stew of wide penne mixed with fresh mushrooms, grilled chicken and broccoli, tossed in marinara.
The homemade tiramisu served in a cup topped with a chocolate crust melted more easily in my mouth than most, thanks to being soaked in several liqueurs. Cannoli -- stuffed with a marscapone-based custard, chocolate chips and pistachio -- tasted just as light and fresh.
The service throughout the meal remained quite professional although our headwaiter dropping our check before we asked him for it lowered his score.
My leftover gnocchi, warmed in a pan on the stove, made for an excellent way to relive this robust food experience the next day.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Mandile's Restaurant and Banquets
Facts: 2160 Lake Cook Road, Algonquin, (847) 458-4000, mandilesrestaurant.com
Cuisine: Italian
Setting: Romantic restaurant on Lake Cook Road off Route 62
Price range: Appetizers $3.95 to $15.95; sandwiches and salads $4.95 to $13.95; entrees $12.95 to $22.95; desserts $3.95 to $8.95; wine $5.50 to $12 by the glass, $25 to $150 by the bottle
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday through Saturday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday
Accepts: Reservations, major credit cards
Also: Full bar; free parking