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Miller's Ale House in Lombard taps into the tropics

It's in close proximity to Taylor Street Brewing Co. and Rock Bottom Brewery, but that doesn't stop revelers from packing the oversized booths of Miller's Ale House, a super-informal Florida-based tap that made its way to the "third coast" - Lombard, to be precise.

Given it comes from the land of marlin and mahi, it's no surprise the menu reflects an ocean-loving mentality. But there's a lot of depth to the menu, too.

Wood paneling throughout the large, boxy room gives it a bit of a ramshackle feel. The walls, dotted with sports paraphernalia such as jerseys from Soriano and Rodman, give you plenty to check out while you wait for your food (and believe me, we waited and waited). TVs as far as the eye can see, in every nook and cranny, help keep the boisterous crowd entertained.

The restaurant's signature dish is its Zingers, which are boneless buffalo wings of varying heat and sauce-types. We went for broke and got the Zinger Melt, a mound of plump chicken fingers piled with melted cheese, sour cream and chunky, mild pico de gallo. You can choose from any of eight sauces, which include garlic barbecue and honey mustard. We went for the Mt. St. Helens, which supposedly is the most tongue-tingling of the bunch. While this was a tasty (if familiar-ish) dish, it barely registered on the Scoville scale. But that's not to say we wouldn't order it again - only this time we'd ask for a bottle of Tabasco alongside.

Also among starters and snacks is the likable blackened chicken quesadilla, which comes with black beans and rice. It's both good and seriously large. That's kind of the theme here, so know that most appetizers are big enough to share (or could easily stand in for an entrée).

Other items on the beginner side range from loaded fries to spinach or smoked fish dip, conch fritters and fried clams. There's also a raw bar, which piles it on with clams and oysters, either steamed or on the half shell. In the dead of winter, we imagine coming here will help folks envision sitting at a table alongside the turquoise-blue water of the Florida Keys. Sure, you'll bundle up on the way to your car, but for a short time Miller's - given its nautical trappings - can send you to the tropics (in spirit).

Soups are hearty, from the conch chowder to the French onion and New England clam. Not that most people come to a bar for salad, but there are more than enough to choose from if you're inclined, including a Chinese chicken and a Southwest bistro steak loaded with Monterey and cheddar cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, black beans, corn and vinaigrette.

There are far too many sandwiches to list, but we certainly can recommend its tender namesake steak sandwich, loaded with onions, mushrooms and provolone on toasted garlic bread. There's a hickory chicken, fish and Philly cheese steak, too. Burgers are well represented as well, ranging from now-ubiquitous minis to one topped with chili and cheese.

More substantial are the house specialties such as osso buco (slow-simmered pork shank), barbecue-sauced baby backs and grilled, teriyaki-marinated chicken topped with pineapple. A handful of steaks further the theme.

We were kind of surprised that we enjoyed the Cajun chicken pasta (this is a bar, after all). But, honestly, it wasn't bad. Bolstered by blackened chicken, mushrooms and tomatoes, the flavorful sauce had a warming kick. There are a number of other eats for carb-lovers, including the aptly named "35 shrimp," which are sautéed in garlicky sherry butter sauce and served atop linguine.

Of course, you can go another route and get chicken, beef or "big house" fajitas with chicken and shrimp. There's a kid's menu, too, offering up faves such as spaghetti and meatballs and Kraft mac and cheese.

As for dessert, we'd suggest the Capt'n Jack's Buried Treasure, if for no other reason than you'll feel silly ordering it. It's a yummy-enough affair with homemade ice cream cake, an Oreo crust, gobs of caramel and fudge-y chocolate and Heath bar bits. (This is built for sharing, too.)

If you're looking to save a few (or, actually, a lot) of bucks, come during lunch when daily specials are an amazing deal. You'll score a fruity $1 Bay Breeze cocktail on Thursdays, for example, along with meatloaf with mashed potatoes for $4.95.

As alluded to earlier, service was inexplicably slow when we dined. But it's not the kind of place most people are in a rush to leave - especially since they came to tip back a few cold ones in the first place.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Miller's Ale House

Facts: 455 E. Butterfield Road, Lombard; (630) 241-3371; millersalehouse.com

Cuisine: Pub grub

Setting: Wood-paneled watering hole

Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday

Price range: Appetizers $5.99 to $26.95 (for 50 wings); soups $3.95 to $4.99; salads $3.99 to $9.95; sandwiches $6.95 to $9.95; entrees $8.95 to $16.95; desserts $3.95 to $5.95

Accepts: Major credit cards

Fish tacos at Miller's Ale House in Lombard. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
Capt'n Jack's Buried Treasure dessert at Miller's Ale House in Lombard. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
Miller's Ale House in Lombard. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
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