Wine holds its own in cocktails

We usually associate cocktails with spirits, but a number of fine cocktails feature the juice of the grape.

No respectable cocktail lounge can be without Vermouth, the wine flavored with botanicals (originally wermut or wormwood) and a dose of spirit for extra oomph.

Whether added drop-by-drop or simply waved over the cocktail shaker, dry Vermouth (the French version) is a component of the martini, sweet (Italian) Vermouth of the Manhattan.

My favorite Vermouth cocktail is the Half-and-Half. In a wine or old-fashioned glass pour equal parts dry and sweet Vermouth over ice; garnish with lemon or orange zest.

Lillet (LEE-lay) is a specialized Vermouth produced in France's Bordeaux region, flavored with the world's finest oranges and matured in oak vats. Originally named Kina Lillet, Lillet's white version was immortalized in 1953 by Ian Fleming's "Casino Royale" in a cocktail now called the Vesper:

"A dry martini," [Bond] said. "One. In a deep Champagne goblet."

"Oui, monsieur."

"Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it's ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?"

For those who desire less firepower than does Agent 007, Lillet makes a delightful aperitif, served over ice with orange zest. (Here's a neat trick: squeeze the zest over a lighted match, allowing ignited oils to fall into your glass for truly "burned orange" accents.)

Sparkling wine is the base for a bevy of cocktails including the Mimosa, dubbed Buck's Fizz in the U.K. (nearly fill a wine glass with sparkling wine, top with orange juice and optionally a teaspoon of Grand Marnier); the Bellini (made with the Italian sparkler Prosecco, peach puree and raspberry puree - or peach and raspberry schnapps); the Kir Royale (French sparkling wine and crème de cassis); and Champagne Velvet (dry-ish sparkling wine and Guinness Stout "'arf and 'arf" in a large goblet).

To prepare any sparkling wine cocktail, thoroughly chill all ingredients and glassware. Use only stemmed glassware, but not your fine crystal because fruity pulp is hard to wash away. Also, don't use fine Champagne; the juice will mask the subtle notes. Francophiles may look for the off-dry sparkler Ste. Hillaire (about $14.); others can choose from a number of Prosecco's including Zonin, Mionetto and Nino Franco "Rustico," all about $14.

In France, where cocktails - not airports - are christened with names of national heroes, the Kir (keer) is a beloved quaff. Named for Resistance fighter Canon Felix Kir, the cocktail combines light, bone-dry white wine (traditionally French Aligote or Macon-Villages) with a dash of crème de cassis. (Nowadays, French waiters may ask whether you want it made with crème de cassis, de mure or de peche, black currant, blackberry or peach, respectively.) No matter how patriotic, never use American wine, which will be too heavy, too oaky and too alcoholic.

You may however substitute a light red (such as Beaujolais-Villages) for a Cardinal (car-di-NAL.)

With a little extra effort and a few more ingredients, the Ecco Cioccolato, created by master mixologist Alex Ott, for Ecco Domani Wines, makes a festive combination of chocolate, raspberries and Chianti. Muddle 6 raspberries with a teaspoon of sugar. Add 2 ounces of Ecco Domani Chianti and 1 teaspoons of sweet cocoa powder. Pour into cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a Martini glass. Carefully spoon whipped cream over the drink and garnish with chocolate shavings. For more of Ott's "wine-tail" recipes visit eccodomani.com.

• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month in Food. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.

Ross' choice

Vya Sweet Vermouth

Andrew Quady

California

• Suggested retail and availability: About $13.99 (375 ml) and $20.99 (750 ml) at wine and spirit shops. (Distributed by Heritage Wine Cellars, Niles)

Since 1975, Andrew Quady has crafted sweet-styled wines that put an American spin on Old World classics like Port and Sauternes. Now, with a nod to Italian Vermouth, Quady releases Vya, with complex flavors that attract Double Gold Medals from America's top wine competitions. Based on Quady's famed Orange Muscat (instead of the typical neutral white wine) and various botanicals, Vya is the Vermouth of choice at choice cocktail lounges for fine Manhattans or simply over ice as an aperitif equal to a visit to your aromatherapist. For Vya mixology, check out vya.com.