Chef turns the tables on tiramisu

As a culinary professional and longtime foodie I can spot mediocre desserts at 20 paces.

I am always on the lookout for exceptional sweets; those treats worth the caloric indulgence. When I escape the kitchen in search of dessert few complex extravaganzas tempt my taste buds. Rather, I gravitate toward simple yet elegant fare that features authentic and fresh ingredients.

During a baking presentation a few years back in Long Grove I met Lucia Cavallino, the Italian dynamo behind the desserts offered at her family's restaurant, Enzio & Lucia's. One taste and I was hooked on her sensational tiramisu.

For the summer dessert menu Lucia offers a fresh berry version of this creamy Italian classic. It is heaven in a glass. On a whim, I asked if she would share her family's dessert secrets and, lucky for us, she obliged.

As I sat in her Long Grove dining room digging into a luscious dessert she graciously shared the secrets behind this recipe and her culinary success. Now, I share them with you.

• Start with mascarpone cheese. This Italian sweet cheese offers a distinctive smooth and creamy texture. Unlike standard American cream cheeses that zing the taste buds with a tangy edge, mascarpone devotes itself to a single flavor, sweet cream.

• Use raw eggs. Lucia's grandmother's maintained that the secret to smooth texture lies in raw egg yolks. Hold the whites, please; they tend to water down the mascarpone. For a food-safe option, look for Davidson's pasteurized eggs. Save the whites for an omelet.

• Get out the stand mixer. Using the heavy machinery to thoroughly whip the egg yolks along with the sugar dissolves the granules and aerates the mixture.

• Skip the coffee liqueur. Gently flavor your summer version with a splash of vanilla extract that offers the perfect back drop for the natural sweetness of the fruit.

• Add in small amounts. Slowly combining the mascarpone and a small amount of heavy cream with the egg yolk mixture prevents the cheese from separating. Short spurts of whipping in lieu of lengthy beating keeps the texture light and airy.

• Fold, fold fold. You can boost the filling's smoothness rating by folding in whipped cream in place of egg whites. Yes, this substitution does elevate the fat and calorie count, but you can balance the richness by layering more fruit than filling.

• Select firm ripe fruit and refrain from sweetening it. Sugar draws moisture from the fruit, which loosens the cheese. Don't use any artificial sweeteners.

• Serve this summer dessert very chilled the same day. For a touch of Italian panache, garnish with a single crisp cookie. It's a perfect way to celebrate the last days of summers.

• Annie Overboe, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, lives in Villa Park. To suggest a topic for the column, write Baking Secrets, c/o Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006 or food@dailyherald.com.

3 large pasteurized egg yolks (such as Davidson's)

½ cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup heavy whipping cream, divided

1 container (8 ounces) mascarpone cheese (see note),

3 cups assorted fresh fruit, cleaned and sliced

Preferably in large stand mixer with whip attachment, combine egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract. Whip on high speed 4 to 5 minutes until very light and lemony in color. Scrape bowl well.

Add 2 tablespoons of the heavy cream and one-third of the mascarpone. Whip on medium speed for 20 seconds. Repeat with 2 more tablespoons heavy cream and one-third of the mascarpone. Add remaining mascarpone and whip for 30 seconds. Increase speed to high and beat 20 seconds, just until very light and combined.

Spoon mixture into large bowl and chill in the freezer while preparing the whipped cream. Add ¾ cup heavy whipping cream to stand mixer bowl. Whip on medium high speed until thick and peaks form. Gently fold whipped cream into mascarpone cheese mixture. Scrape bowl gently, but well. Cheese mixture is very rich.

Beginning and ending with fruit, layer cheese mixture with fresh fruit in tall glass stemware. Cover lightly with plastic and chill 2 hours before serving.

Serves eight.

Baker's hint: Look for mascarpone cream cheese in the specialty cheese section at the grocery store.

Serves eight.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving: 396 calories, 26 g fat (7 g saturated), 38 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 4 g protein, 160 mg cholesterol, 34 mg sodium.