Versatility allows him to cater to variety of tastes

Ryan Stewart, 41, has a passion for sharing his trade with others.

"To me food is life and love, and to share food with people is an extension of that," says Stewart, executive chef of Chicago Prime Meat Market, a Glen Ellyn gourmet market.

The Minneapolis-raised chef, now living in Wayne, attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York, graduating in 1994 after achieving a perfect score on his final cooking practical exam. Stewart's experience ranges from preparing gourmet food at fine-dining restaurants, including the former Bistro Banlieue in Lombard and Philander's Restaurant at The Carleton Hotel in Oak Park, to developing the gourmet market concept at Giselle's Gourmet Market in Chicago, where he also taught classes.

At Chicago Prime, Stewart is devoted to anticipating the wants and desires of his clients and catering to the gourmet in all of us.

What is your earliest food memory? When I was young I went to a Japanese steakhouse for my birthday. It was good for my parents because it occupied my attention and I was in awe of the food preparation.

What led you to become a chef? Growing up, my best friend's father had a chain of wine stores and a catering company. He threw high-end parties, much like (The Great) Gatsby's character. I was enlisted to perform duties from coat check to helping in the kitchen pouring wine. I always enjoyed the big event. Later, as a young bartender in San Diego at the Catamaran, I had a barter system going with the chef. He didn't want his drinks rung up, so I traded drinks for food. While there, I tasted a lot of fine food and learned to do many different things at a fast pace.

What are your culinary strengths? Versatility. At Giselle's I conducted cooking classes every couple of weeks and had to be an expert at many cuisines. Also, I love sharing with people. Some chefs have secrets, I don't have any.

What are your responsibilities at Chicago Prime Meat Market? There are two primary areas of responsibility: I am in charge of prepared foods and catering. We are experiencing tremendous growth. The catering business was born out of demand and my challenge is to grow this business with a team that is committed to quality.

What is your favorite dish to prepare? I don't have a specific dish. What I do really like is different varieties of ethnic peasant food. The really good food is what the locals appreciate. When I travel, I like to go to the back areas. I have an adventuresome palate and I like to try what the locals are eating. The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know. I created beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola gnocchi and oven-dried tomatoes with pesto butter from flavors I enjoy.

Name one ingredient you couldn't live without? Fresh herbs, that's what I grow in my garden. They bring freshness and life to food.

What tip can you offer home cooks planning a special dinner or event? When I taught cooking classes, I taught methods and principles as opposed to recipes. If you understand methods and principles, you can start creating and you alleviate the need for a recipe.

Where do you like to eat when you dine out? Small mom and pop places. On a special occasion, I like to go downtown to some of the finer establishments and see what's going on in the big city. I do love Asian food - Japanese, Thai - and I love tacos!

When you're not cooking, what do you like to do? I enjoy the outdoors and spending time with my boys, Jake and Clayton. I live on a farm out in Wayne and I spend a lot of time outdoors gardening.

What is the best lesson your livelihood has taught you? The unexpected always happens. You really need to be organized and prepared to troubleshoot. It's how you respond to the screw-ups that matters. You can apply this to all aspects of your life. Things don't always go as planned, but it's how you recover and deal with the unforeseen that's important.

Tell us about this recipe. Burgundy Peppercorn Marinated Chicago Prime Tender is a signature steak. You don't find hanging tender very often. It is the third most tender piece of meat on the cow and is great for grilling.

Enjoy this at home or at Chicago Prime Meat Market, 711 Roosevelt Road, Glen Ellyn, (630) 790-0100, www.chicagoprimemarket.com.

• To suggest a chef to be profiled, e-mail food@daily herald.com.

Prime Tender Sandwich

1 medium Spanish white onion, sliced

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoons horseradish, grated

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon scallions, thinly sliced

Salt and pepper for seasoning

½ pound Chicago Prime Tender

1 baguette (6 inches) cut in half lengthwise

In a sauté pan, sauté sliced onions in oil until golden brown, about 10-12 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar and cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix together sour cream, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce and scallions. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Heat grill to 350 degrees and grill the meat about 6 to 7 minutes per side. Open the baguette bread up and toast it on the grill for about 1 minute.

Spread the horseradish sauce on the hot bread, put the grilled tender on the bread, and top it with the caramelized balsamic onions. Serve hot.

Serves one.

Chef's note: You can marinate the tender yourself, or purchase it already soaked in Burgundy Peppercorn marinade from the market.

Chef Ryan Stewart, Chicago Prime Market, Glen Ellyn