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Peach Melba not just for dessert

Great summer fruit seldom requires recipe assistance from other sweet table selections. Often served solo, this warm weather staple delivers guaranteed delicious desserts. When partnered alongside a simple yet tasty companion such as ice cream, the results create heavenly sensations on the taste buds.

All this made me wonder what other culinary possibilities remain unexplored for fresh summer fruit. Over the seasons we have pureed ripe strawberries into coulis, simmered blueberries into luscious sauces and grilled spiced stone fruit at summer barbecues.

I was looking for a new way to use fresh, uncooked fruit recipes when a new line of frozen food caught my eye while I grocery shopped. Fruit Inspirations pairs fruit with meat. Hmm. I could do that.

I decided to start with a classic dessert and transform what would normally be a fruity component to a sweet partner into a savory condiment.

Peach Melba became my inspiration. In the 19th century famed French chef Auguste Escoffier created this treat of peaches, raspberry sauce and ice cream to honor Dame Nellie Melba. My version turns Peach Melba's two summer fruits - peaches and raspberries - into a semisweet condiment. This new summer relish holds the pickles and other spicy ingredients in favor of the natural flavors of ripe summer fruits.

While the taste buds warmly welcome these sweet tastes, savory meats partner better with condiments that boast a toned-down sugar presence. Think sweet and sour or honey mustard dipping sauces. The secret to with these sauces lies in the contrast between the zesty flavors and sweet tastes. Fresh peaches and raspberries could easily hold their own in such a recipe, but the zesty flavors requires something with a bold essence.

Sweet raspberry vinegar provides intense zest punctuated by the berry taste. I tested Vincotto brand raspberry sweet vinegar and was impressed with the deep rich color and vibrant aroma. Don't be surprised by the small amount used in today's recipe - this vinegar packs a powerful punch.

Knowing the best savory condiments contain a small amount of fat, I chose extra virgin olive oil to gently smooth the vinegar's sharp notes. Here's where it pays to purchase exceptionally quality olive oil; look for a fresh aroma and light taste.

After a few test batches I discovered the fruit needed a slight touch of sweetness to draw out the natural spiciness of the peaches. Honey, not white sugar, provides background flavors in addition to the sweet boost.

With today's Peach Melba recipe, hold the ice cream and pass the meat!

• Annie Overboe, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, lives in Villa Park. Send questions to Baking Secrets, Daily Herald Food section, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or food@dailyherald.com. Questions will not be responded to personally.

Peach Melba Relish

1 tablespoon sweet raspberry vinegar

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon honey

1 cups diced ripe peaches (about 3-4 medium fruits)

½ cup fresh raspberries

In small serving bowl whisk raspberry vinegar, olive oil and honey until well blended. Add peaches and stir to coat completely. Set aside to marinate 15 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes to blend fruit juices with marinade.

Just before serving add fresh raspberries and gently toss to coat.

Serves eight.

Baker's hint: For best flavor and texture, this relish is best served the same day as made.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutrition values per serving: 35 calories, 2 g fat (0 g saturated), 5 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, trace amount protein, 0 cholesterol, trace amount sodium.

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