Ovi's offers fresh, affordable fare in a friendly setting
Thanks to my piano tuner, a musician and motorcycle-riding septuagenarian from Hanover Park, I have discovered a gem of a little pub that's friendly, affordable and comfortable.
Owned by Ovi and Maria Catanescu, the eponymous eatery opened in December at the bustling corner of Route 59 and Stearns Road, a smart location for attracting those weary of fast-food chains.
With just 100 seats, divided among high tops, standard tables and the solid oak bar, the interior is cozy and warmly finished with mustard-colored walls, beaming wood floors and colorful, Tiffany-style light fixtures. On a sunny, summer evening the interior is bright and welcoming, a mood reflected in the staff.
Among the guests this night are a group of women out for dinner and a cocktail and a family with young children. Three large plasma TVs offer distraction for those who need it, but the noise level is conversation friendly.
The menu is straightforward American pub food channeled through the Romanian-born owners. Fresh ingredients predominate among appetizers, soups and salads, burgers, pizza, sandwiches and entrees.
The top of the line is a $19.99 surf and turf of filet mignon and shrimp. But a number of entrees hover right around $10 and $11, and all entrees and sandwiches come with sides, a good value for your dining dollars.
The $4.99 children's menu includes homey favorites such as grilled cheese and mac and cheese.
More than a dozen appetizers are available, so we pushed the "easy" button and ordered the sampler plate. This well-made assortment comes with three each of bruschetta, deep-fried mozzarella wedges with housemade marinara sauce and wings with hot sauce, and an order of spicy onion "leaves," segments of onion rings battered and deep fried, served with Cajun mayo.
The fried items were hot and crisp and the bruschetta tasted fresh as a farmers market. This is fun for two or three people.
Entrees cover land and sea with pan-seared salmon, Cajun-spiced tilapia, filet mignon, New York strip steak, chicken and pasta dishes.
For a sure thing try the slow-roasted ribs (half or full order), cooked for six hours at low temperature so they fall off the bone. We liked the "chef's gourmet sauce," a spicy, heartier blend, but you can ask for "sweet sauce," which is Sweet Baby Ray's.
Crunchy cole slaw and puffy, crisp waffle fries fill out the plate.
Grilled Florence chicken breast is tender and very juicy under a thick layer of melted fresh mozzarella. Finely diced bruschetta tomatoes on top add some zip.
I opted for the simply prepared black beans, a welcome change from typical sides.
Sandwiches are typically multilayered, Dagwood-style creations. The Santa Fe chicken wrap pulls together black beans, corn, pico de gallo, spicy queso cheese and chipotle mayo. The chicken bleu features grilled mushrooms, Swiss and blue cheese, lettuce and tomato.
We opted for the simpler Italian beef, thinly sliced and piled high on a toasted French roll, served with a cup of richly flavored jus. You can stack it higher with sausage or mozzarella for a small up-charge. House-made garlic mashed potatoes are fluffy and have just enough pungent garlic flavor.
Salads include hearty options such as steak with blue cheese and mushrooms or barbecued chicken with bacon and Colby-jack cheese under smoked chipotle dressing.
Two desserts have house-made elements: the brownies with ice cream and Maria Catanescu's "adults only" ice cream sauce made with Grand Marnier, port wine and peach schnapps.
Though the brownies were hot and chocolaty they had an unpleasantly crisp exterior, like they had been fried. We skipped the grownup ice cream sauce and dug into a slice of Eli's plain cheesecake garnished with caramel sauce. A little more sauce and this will be good.
Service was friendly and efficient; Maria Catanescu stopped by all the tables to chat and make everyone feel welcome.
My piano tuner wasn't there, but if you stop by and see a fellow on a purple, three-wheeled motorcycle, it's probably him. Tell him "thanks" from me.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Ovi's Pub
Location: 1075 Stearns Road, Bartlett; (630) 289-2333; ovispub.com
Cuisine: American bar food Setting: Cozy, neighborhood pub Price range: Appetizers $3.99 to $12.99; soups and salads $2.50 to $8.99; sandwiches and entrees $7.75 to $19.99.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday Accepts: Major credit cards; no reservations Fridays and Saturdays