Fort Lauderdale cleans up its act; polishes its image

Old stereotypes die hard. There are still some people who equate Fort Lauderdale, Fla., with beer can-littered beaches, raucous rock music blaring out of every beachfront cafe and hot swingin' babes in teeny-weeny bikinis.

Blame such indelible images on the old Connie Francis, cult film classic, "Where the Boys Are." Those spring flings with their wet T-shirt beach parties, two-bit beer bars and the 350,000 collegians that hit the beach each year are ancient history.

Fort Lauderdale, has cleaned up its act and polished its image. Today it basks in the tropical glow of Florida's Gold Coast, its rejuvenated 23 miles of coastline, honored with national Blue Wave Beach certification, lauding it as among the cleanest, safest and user-friendliest in the nation. The long and short of it: "Lauderdale" has emerged as a favored family friendly destination, whether it's for a weeklong visit or an overnight pre- or post-cruise stay.

Water world

Crisscrossed with canals, creeks and rivers and more than 300 miles of navigable waterways, the area boasts 44,000 resident yachts with more docks than driveways. As for Fort Lauderdale's Port Everglades, it's one of the busiest cruise ports in the world, hosting 15 cruise lines, with 40 cruise ships to serve the more than 3 million passengers expected in 2008.

The facility is gearing up to become the world's biggest cruise port (in number of passengers) within the next five years, due in no small part to its home porting of Royal Caribbean International's two new 5,400-passenger Genesis-class behemoths, the first to be delivered in 2009, with the second following in 2010.

The best way to get acquainted with Greater Fort Lauderdale's celebrated wet side is via a water taxi. You can float your way to and from your hotel, restaurants and the beach, plus jump on and off again at 11 stops that put you ashore at some of the city's most enticing venues. The $11 adult, $9 kid, all-day pass is a relative bargain when you consider what the same thing would cost in a cab.

To get an idea of how tourism drives the Fort Lauderdale economy, last year 10.7 million visitors accounted for expenditures of close to $9 billion. To gain a better perspective of the importance foreign investment plays in the area's upscale coastal properties, hop on a water taxi for a tour along the Intracoastal and New River to view an imposing panorama of towering office buildings, high-rise hotels, celebrity homes, mansions and mega-yachts.

Fun in the sun

Although its expanse of golden beaches and other appealing amenities have established Fort Lauderdale as one of America's favored hot spots, there's a lot more than an abundance of sunshine and warm southern hospitality to commend the "Venice of America" as a first-rate vacation retreat.

Consider its impressive variety of waterborne activities: diving, deep sea fishing, skimming across the Everglades in an airboat, water skiing, kite surfing, canoeing or kayaking. For landlubbers there's hiking, biking, golfing at 70 courses, or exploring the natural wonders of 30 parks, nature preserves and wilderness areas - something to interest each and every family member.

Things to see and do

Riverwalk, an arts & entertainment center in a tropical park setting in the heart of downtown Fort Lauderdale, offers myriad shopping, dining, night life and cultural opportunities. Suit your particular fancy along the meandering brick promenade that runs along the New River with such sites as the Broward Center for the Performing Arts, (954) 462-0222; Museum of Art with permanent collections and rotating exhibitions, (954) 525-5500; the Florida Historical Society featuring the history and heritage of old Florida in an enclave of historical houses, (954) 463-4431; and Cinema Paradiso, a 1920s church converted into an art house featuring first-run films from around the world, (954) 525-3456.

Butterfly World is the tropical garden home to thousands of rainbow-hued butterflies fluttering about amid 10 acres of waterfalls, exotic birds and colorful flower displays, (954) 977-4400. The Billie Swamp Safari offers an overnight stay at a traditional Seminole Chickee hut. Or take an in-depth wildlife tour aboard swamp buggies or airboats to view water buffalo, bison, wild hogs, eagles, alligators and even Florida panthers, (800) 949-6101.

Dedicated shoppers can further indulge their passion for possessions at the 100 or so shops along Las Olas Boulevard. Once a trading post for early settlers and Seminole Indians, today sidewalk cafes dot the tree-lined thoroughfare, perfect for strolling.

The night beat

Fort Lauderdale is loaded with nightclubs, everything from haute, to hot, to hip, including a few dozen devoted to a gay and lesbian clientele. A sampling of those featuring music and/or other entertainment:

Patrons dress up a bit to visit Spice Resto-Lounge on Hollywood Boulevard in Hollywood then dance to the live Latin beat of salsa, (954) 923-3000.

Live bands at the Culture Club, on North Federal Highway, jam at show time with rock, heavy metal and the blues at this tri-level dance club, (954) 564-1074.

O'Hara's Pub, on East Las Olas, features New Orleans-style blues and jazz, (954) 524-1764.

Dicey Riley's on SW Second Street is an Irish-American Pub with live music that packs the joint on weekends, (954) 522-2202.

If you go

Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

GO: If sun, surf and sand are your main ingredients for vacation fun

NO: If you'd rather indulge in more cerebral pursuits: cool museums, concert halls, the theater

Need to know: Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau, (954) 765-4466, www.sunny.org

Getting there: Fort Lauderdale is midway between Palm Beach and Miami, each just 40 miles away. United, American, Spirit and Southwest fly nonstop from Chicago to Fort Lauderdale.

Climate: Winter temperatures average 66 degrees and summer temperatures hover around 84 degrees. January is the coolest month of the year and August is the warmest. The heaviest rainfall occurs during August and September.

Where to stay: Volatile markets? U.S. economy in a funk? Recession? Apparently the bad news hasn't caught up with Fort Lauderdale's hotel owners and developers, or maybe most of the new construction was already in the works before the bad news hit. Whatever, luxury hotels and condo-hotels have been popping up all over the Florida landscape like toadstools in a rain forest. Among the more than 30,000 guest accommodations in 565 hotels, resorts and lodging properties in the Greater Fort Lauderdale area (with an average daily room rate of $124) there are some flashy new upper bracket entries:

St. Regis Resort: A 26-story tiered sanctuary overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and Intracoastal Waterway, Fort Lauderdale's first St. Regis is built on the former site of the Candy Store Bar where raucous spring-break college kids once chugalugged 25-cent beers. Prices for the five-star facility's 155 luxurious guest rooms range from $650 to $800 per night, (954) 465-2300.

il Lugano Resort: The unique selling proposition of these plush digs is twofold - an unprecedented level of personalized service matched with a breathtaking, panoramic view from each of its elegant 105 suites. Guests off for a bit of shopping are chauffeured in Cadillac Escalades, or if they prefer, they can climb aboard the il Lugano's private cruising boat and cruise to their destination, (954) 564-4400.

Hilton Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort: Keeping up with its uppity upscale neighbors, an all-suite Hilton resort has sprung up on the shoreline of exclusive palm-shaded North Beach. The 373 elegantly appointed and designer-furnished studios, one-, two- and three-bedroom residences, feature fully-equipped kitchens, bathrooms with separate showers and European soaking tubs. Not to be overlooked are eye-popping views of the Atlantic Ocean or the Intracoastal Waterway from balconies, (800) 445-8667.

For the budget-minded, there's a large collection of bargain-priced motels, bed-and-breakfasts and small seaside facilities with an average rate of $40 to $60 per night, even lower priced during the summer low season, if you shop around.

Where to eat:

The iconic Floridian, 1410 E. Las Olas Blvd., a Lauderdale staple since 1937, is an ideal choice for a hearty family breakfast. Hungry teens can stoke up on huge omelets, stacks of pancakes and other standard breakfast fare, (954) 463-4041.

Fish, 1850 S.E. 17th St. Causeway, serves contemporary and comfort seafood dishes in a business-casual setting, (954) 527-5433.

Capital Grille, 2430 E. Sunrise Blvd., at the Galleria Mall, is a good spot for lunch, (954) 446-2000.

Trina, in the Atlantic Hotel, 601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., offers fresh Mediterranean cuisine with patio/outdoor dining and a sweeping ocean view. Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays, (954) 630-1999.

Blue Moon Fish Company, 4405 W. Tradewinds Ave., Fort Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, serves fresh Florida cuisine on the waterfront with unparalleled dockside views, (954) 267-9888.

Johnny V, 625 E. Las Olas Blvd., showcases Chef Johnny Vinczencz's culinary talents. A bold Caribbean-inspired New American menu and special tapas in the bar lounge add to Johnny's fame, (954) 761-7920.

Jackson's Steakhouse, USDA Prime, 450 E. Las Olas Blvd., is where the Lauderdale elite meet to eat, (954) 522-4450.