Haussmann Brasserie boasts choice fillets in Northfield
Renowned chef Jacky Pluton has extended his already large following with this recently opened Northfield spot, a sibling of the popular Evanston eatery Jacky's Bistro. This particular space has housed several well-liked and oft-frequented restaurants during the past decade and a half, which gives Haussmann Brasserie an authentic, broken-in vibe. The cuisine promises to be "American with a Parisian flair," so we brought our French accents and, of course, our appetites.
The scene
Charming French doors (can French doors be anything but charming?) run the length of the Brasserie, seemingly promising a gateway to a breezy summertime patio. Indeed, the entryway into the restaurant is easy on the eye, but the inside décor felt heavy, with a tile mosaic surrounding the bar, burnt orange and maroon carpet and exposed brick.
The food
A bottomless breadbasket with butter and a pinch of salt from a cute, petite bowl opened up the appetite just perfectly. A gaze over the menu revealed Haussmann Brasserie's one-page itinerary of classics, such as French onion soup, steak au poivre (in this case, the pepper steak is a fillet), foie gras and country pate, as well as a tempting calf liver with onions. The plate du jour offered a very alluring soft shell crab, but on a recent evening, we were informed that they'd just run out of it.
The foie gras and country pate seemed only natural as a first course, but the foie gras left a lot to be desired and was effortlessly outshined by the simpler country pate. That said, they were both garnished with crunchy cornichons, toasted bread, a dab of mustard and watercress - a great way to create delicious petite sandwiches.
The seared sea diver scallops main course, served with capers and cauliflower, cut like butter and boasted an attractive golden brown color but seemed not quite as fresh as it could be. Were it not for the capers adding their lemony sourness, the sauce would have been hard-pressed to hold up the dish by itself.
The steak au poivre was a superb, generous and juicy pepper-crusted filet mignon with mushroom sauce and potatoes au gratin. It did precisely what a $30 dish is supposed to do - melt in your mouth and make you repeat small steak affirmations in your mind.
The single Pinot Noir on the menu was disappointingly bitter; the Hessman Cabernet was a definite step up, almost erasing the taste of the first wine. The round apple tart for dessert, delightful with its melting vanilla ice cream and buttery pecans, was just enough for two and a perfect way to top off the meal.
The experience
Some great food moments were offset by slightly inattentive service. Our server was polite, but seemed distracted, neglecting to tell us about the night's specials or give personal wine suggestions. A 30-something foursome at a table next to ours loudly discussing the virtues of "American Idol" also was distracting, but a few bites of steak made their voices fade into the background.
Haussmann Brasserie
305 S. Happ Road, Northfield
(847) 446-1133
Cuisine: American with a French twist
Setting: Lots of maroon, a long velvet curtain and exposed brick
Prices: Appetizers $3-$6; Entrees: $18-$39; Desserts: $8
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5 to 8 p.m. Sunday