621 Diner sustains itself on greasy-spoon classics
Just like a good pub, a diner occupies a special place in people's hearts. Sure, it might not have the best food or drink, but you find yourself walking in there anyway, sitting down with friends and smiling, while a familiar face asks you whether it'll be "the usual."
The new 621 Diner in Lombard is the creation of Chef Jason Paskewitz, co-owner of Jackson Park Bar and Grill in Chicago's River North. Thanks to an ambience and menu that evokes a '50s "just-off-the-truck-for-a-bite" feel with its long counter and red booths, the diner offers an above-average take on this familiar eating experience.
The scene: A midcentury time warp dominates the old-school decor and vibe, focusing on vintage Lombard photos and jaunty music, eradicating any possibility for a bad mood. Red-and-white checkered, oilcloth-covered tables and black chalkboards scrawled with daily specials enforce a leisurely, greasily authentic demeanor.
The food: Since the chef isn't some random guy opening up a 20-seat diner, but happens to be someone who is acutely aware of the already crowded dining market in the area, expectations were high.
Our optimism was further enforced by a glance at the menu, which boasted specials like eggs Benedict, blue plate favorites fried chicken and waffles, customary burgers and several items touted as being "Seen on the Food Network Challenge!" We took that last one to be a personal dare and promptly ordered the spaghetti and meatball sandwich. Our server happily told us that it was indeed the chef himself and Harrison Ford's son who faced off in a Food Network sandwich challenge with that very concoction. (It's not clear what kind of sandwich Harrison Ford's son made, but he apparently lost and has since vanished from the neighborhood, fearing the shame would outlive him.)
We weren't sure what to expect from a spaghetti and meatball sandwich, but we were waiting to be surprised with something out of the ordinary. The anticlimax arrived with the plate, as it appeared to be no more creative than a bread roll stuffed with long hanging spaghetti and bland meatballs. Enormously long fries completed the plate, together with a pickle.
A promise for a great, homemade corned beef hash with three eggs also proved tempting, and the server's assurance that it was one of the most popular breakfast specials sealed the deal. Two cups of soup - clam chowder and cream of mushroom - served as appetizers and were delicious, a vivid departure from the usual soup quality at diners.
The corned beef hash under three eggs sprinkled with parsley, though, was far too greasy. The crispy hash browns were saturated with oil, requiring the eater to take frequent breaks and breathe deeply. Despite any underwhelming feelings, however, all food was eaten - which speaks volumes about its essential decency.
Since going without a piece of pie at a diner is practically sacrilege, we were not about to commit this sin and dug into a warm cherry slice, which featured a nice vanilla ice cream scoop. A strawberry milkshake also was requested, and all was fine with the world once again.
The experience: A neighborhood atmosphere and friendly service make the experience pleasant and compensate for the fact the food didn't exactly blow our minds. Above-average prices pinch a little, but compared with any of the diners in a three-mile radius, this is the one that should strike your fancy if you happen to find yourself trucking along Roosevelt Road in Lombard and needing a break.
621 Diner
621 E Roosevelt Road, Lombard
Phone: (630) 620-0060
Web: 621diner.com
Cuisine: American breakfast; diner fare
Setting: '50s diner time warp in a strip mall
Price range: Appetizers: $6-$8; entrees: $6-$10; desserts: $3-$4
Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday; 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday